Atc pilot vs grigri If a belayer lets go of the brake strand during a fall, the Grigri will still lock up and catch the climber. It is also the recommended lowering method of the Black Diamond ATC Pilot. There are advantages and disadvantages to using the two belaying devices. Gri Gris often encourage poor technique when it comes to "assisted breaking and the miss conception of AUTO breaking. Petzl’s most recent rendition of the Grigri has an anti-panic feature to add security when belaying in top rope mode. The ATC has two main uses: belaying a climber to safely stop any potential fall, and abseiling or doing a rappel down the route. Black Diamond ATC Guide best practices vs. Others have their preferences for similar designs from other brands, but I am pretty confident more mountains have been climbed with the ATC guide than any other. The GriGri and the ATC climbing device have the same aim: to keep the climber safe. First, and most importantly, with a Grigri and other devices with a moving cam, the assisted braking function works independently of the position of the brake hand. It's easier to feed slack through than the Grigri. At 200g the GRIGRI + is 30g heavier than the GRIGRI 2. It backfired once: the only time I was ever dropped in 50 years of climbing was when being lowered with a GriGri and the belayer panicked. Jan 10, 2018 · There have been a variety of assisted braking devices to hit the market in the last couple of years, most with the goal of being a lightweight and simpler alternative to the GriGri. Multpitch: 1X Grigri + 1X ATC, or 2X ATC, depending on the situation. Leader is belayed on a Grigri, while carrying the other belay device. However, the Pilot also resembles a mini version of Mammut Smart Alpine (for ropes 8. 3）如果你只想在岩馆里攀爬，并不想到外面去。或者即使到外面去野攀，也不想先锋的话，那么可以考虑只使用管状保护器，也不用做装备控了。现在 BD 还出品了一个单槽的被动锁住保护器 ATC Pilot（ BD 新出了一款保护器 ），也是蛮适合岩馆使用的。 Help Wanted. However, their mechanisms and features vary from one another, while some climbers prefer the GriGri and others the ATC. Dec 16, 2022 · The Petzl Grigri, invented in 1991, is single-handedly the most well-known assisted braking belay device. 5mm). Petzl GriGri 2: 170 g *Being steel, I expect this device to last much longer than its aluminum cousins. 0 beats out the Black Diamond ATC Pilot in all categories except for the package size on the harness, and would be my recommended choice for any climber looking for an added layer of security in case of an injury of the belayer at a lower weight and price point than a grigri. buymeacoffee. Others that I've tried. However, the Grigri is overall a safer belay device. Sep 4, 2014 · Black Diamond ATC Guide: 88 g. Außerdem werden im Video auch einige Anwendungsfehler erklärt. 5mm. Black Diamond Big Air XP Belay Device Package. I have gotten more serious recently, but have been climbing for over a year and you are the first person to suggest starting on a grigri instead of an atc. This 1-Hour class will teach you how to tie into the rope as a climber, top rope belay using a GriGri, use climbing commands and perform checks to minimize risk while climbing. 9mm to 10. Jan 14, 2016 · Many people know the Grigri and were reluctant to use the Pilot (despite the fact that the Pilot can be used like a regular ATC). When I started i got an ATC and I ended up buying a Grigri for sport climbing. Is an ATC better than a Grigri? We break down the differences between the types of belay devices and share our favorites for different types of climbing. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Så hva skal man velge av alle disse taubremsene? Selv kjøpte jeg Grigri da den kom i 1991, og har den fremdeles. but i think at the end of the day, use whatever you Mar 2, 2023 · Comparing GriGri vs Atc gives you so much information, but the two belaying devices differ in functionalities and features. Similar to a Grigri, it provides smooth and secure control for belaying and rappelling. Yes. I now use a 'standard' grigri at the indoor wall as I think it has additional safety features over an ATC when being used at an indoor wall [frequent falls and lowering off] once you have familiarised yourself with how to use it correctly. Overview Assisted breaking belay devices are nothing new. P. Once someone is proficient with both an ATC and a GriGri2, I think the case is difficult to make that the ATC is any safer. I understand why people prefer the Grigri. Once you get the hang of it, ATC pilot wins in every category. Revo - feeds slack super smooth. The Pilot is lighter than an ATC guide and pretty darn smooth. About Us. I bought it to take the place of my Grigri on multi pitch climbs because I still wanted an assisted breaking device but didn't want the weight of the Grigri. This system not only benefits the belayer by reducing the strain on them, but also aids the climber, giving them piece of mind that unless something truly disastrous happens, each and every De GriGri is al een aantal keer vernieuwd en is nu geschikt voor touwen van 8. The ATC Pilot is Black Diamond’s offering, and for those who prefer this style of belay device, it may be the best in its class. ATC-Pilot Belay Device – Black Diamond About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket Press Copyright Jul 13, 2018 · The new Black Diamond ATC Pilot is an impressive addition to the growing number of "brake assisting" belay devices on the market. Jul 11, 2024 · What we don’t: Not as secure as the Grigri above; more expensive than BD's ATC Guide. My ATC has gotten about 5 years of good use and is starting seem like it might be time put it away except for some rappelling. Might as well invest in a slightly more expensive guide-style device (BD ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso, Grivel Belay Master Pro, etc. Providing an added level of security to your belay,… Grigri Vs Atc Pilot Safety Reddit Das Petzl Im Test Und Vergleich Casio Pathfinder Watch Hatchback. May 26, 2017 · Firstly, the GRIGRI + isn't designed to be a replacement for the GRIGRI 2 - they are intended to sit alongside each other in the range. ATC Aug 3, 2023 · Reading Time: 4 minutesUnveiling the Differences When it comes to climbing, safety is paramount. Follow along with Gearheads Alex Quitiquit and Nils Mindnich as they dive into three of their favorite Sep 4, 2024 · Лучшие производители снаряжения для работы на высоте: Petzl GriGri+ vs Petzl GriGri 2, Black Diamond ATC – сравнение моделей Quando è il momento di trattenere una caduta l’ATC Pilot svolge egregiamente il suo lavoro, con una azione di bloccaggio decisa ed efficace ed un po’ meno immediata rispetto al Grigri. I went from normal ATC to GriGri to Pilot. I use the GriGri for single pitch sport and in the gym. 31%. ) now so that you don't buy the Pilot or XP, and when you decide to do multi pitch (or climb with twin/half ropes), you have to then purchase a second device. Monica Daniel Outdoor Gear October 14th, 2020 - 04:46:28. If you’re asking what is an ATC, it is one of the most common belay devices used in rock climbing. On multi-pitch outings, we like a more streamlined (and lighter) device. From a small girl to another, just go get a grigri. So the outcome in your gym could have potentially been the same if the belayer was using a GriGri. The ATC, on the other hand, is symmetrical and can be loaded either way. Side note if anyone is still reading this thread. Grigri Vs Atc Pilot Reddit Safety Best Assisted Braking Belay Devices For Rock Climbing Petzl Plus. The Grigri and ATC are perfectly adequate for top rope climbing outdoors or indoors. Top Rated. Jun 13, 2018 · The GriGri + had a mediocre score in this category. PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, and Top-Rope Climbing - Gray $75. Come calare il compagno: mentre tieni la corda con la mano, ciò che devi fare è ruotare il dispositivo e rilasciare la corda. Jul 25, 2023 · The Grigri is an assisted braking belay device designed for climbing inside or outdoors. Grigri vs. Black Diamond ATC Pilot Belay Device May 20, 2020 · Smart, Jul og ATC Pilot har et slags fremspring der man legger tommelen og presser taubremsen frem mens den andre hånda drar ut tau. Feb 21, 2020 · Think of them as a cross between a GriGri and an ATC. 0 – with brake assist; Black Diamond ATC Pilot– with brake assist; DMM Grip – 7 Years and It Still Never Officially Came Out; Edelrid Jul²– with brake assist; Trango Vergo Dec 24, 2017 · The Mega Jul (for ropes 7. If you live close but don't have equipment you may qualify for loaner equipment. The mega jul probably does everything you want, but the consensus is that it doesn't do everything as well as a grigri and a reverso or atc guide combo. I don't really want to have to untwist my rope every couple of pitches, especially on a multi. But in too many cases, it’s not the device we would reach for. Group Top-Roping. Zu den empfohlenen Autotubern gehören außerdem das Black Diamond ATC-Pilot und Climbing Technology Click Up. 0 und das Edelrid Jul². Feb 21, 2020 · The last few years have seen the release of several new or updated “passive” assisted locking devices, including the ATC Pilot from Black Diamond. On this Friday's gear show w'are having a look at how to use a Petzl GriGri 2, it's safety features, and what to avoid doing with it. I personally tested the ATC Pilot (not to be confused with DMM's Pilot) and found that it fed lead rope smooth, it caught easily, locked without slippage, and lowered smooth. Add GRIGRI Belay Device to Compare . Ob Smart, Ergo, Pilot, Fish oder Jul: All diese Geräte basieren auf dem Tube-Prinzip, allerdings bieten sie einen Sicherheitsbonus im Vergleich zu herkömmlichen Tubern. The problem is, when a new climber is trying to learn the Grigri, the simple fact that there are more moving parts, it’s a little more confusing to rig up correctly, and there are more steps involved with lowering, sometimes confuses new climbers “in the moment”. Follower is belayed in guide mode. As far as biners go, theyre all pretty much the same. I agree its a mute point arguing ATC vs GriGri. Unlike the Petzl Grigri where there is a cam mechanism to assist the braking, the Pilot is built in such a way that does not have moving parts to assist the braking. Oct 1, 2021 · ATC vs GriGri Mechanical devices likes the GriGri and Birdie offer a braking system that can hold a rope in a locked position if the belayer were to let go of the rope. Personally, not a big fan for all the "minimalist" sport climbing devices (think ATC Pilot, Mega Jul). Basically same motions than with atc, but with a little safety help. I tried lead belaying with both the Grigri and the ATC pilot. I have both and the correct answer is Black Diamond ATC Pilot. Im “Handling gesamt” bleibt der ATC Pilot hinter dem GriGri. Jun 16, 2018 · From my testing, the Mammut Smart 2. Here’s our guide to the worlds hardest bouldering grade. I just hate it when I see someone treating the gri as a failproof device and using it incorrectly. Da es das GriGri schon lange gibt, sind alle Fehler, die mit dem Gerät passieren können, bekannt. I know have a grigri and I see it’s totally worth it. This belay device is designed ergonomically with a Jul 1, 2022 · Der ATC Pilot von Black Diamond. And this was in the year that saw some updates to the GriGri line, as well as the Trango Vergo, the Black Diamond ATC Pilot, and the Edelrid Mega Jul. I loved it until if the other person was really heavy, they would slowly come down a bit and it left them frustrated. Let’s compare the two devices in different settings. It secures a climber as they are going up or down the wall. What it is From Black Diamond: The lightweight Black Diamond ATC Pilot represents an advance in technology for the world of assisted braking devices. However its locking ability depends on the rope, carabiner and weight of the climber. Jun 18, 2019 · It is comparable to the Salewa Ergo, Mammut Smart, Black Diamond ATC Pilot type of device but not quite as smooth as the Climbing Technology Click-up. But I really didn't like how one feeds and lowers with it. It functions similar to tube-style belay devices but offers superior bite when the leader falls or hangs for a while on the rope. But it's just the best. I have the new grigri and really like it. For that reason, I have begun mainly using an atc pilot, which feeds slack much easier and lowers smoother than a grigri imo. The ATC has been used incorrectly, and the GriGri would have been used incorrectly as well in the same situation; the fault is completely on the belayer and not the belay device. The lightweight Black Diamond ATC Pilot represents an advance in technology for the world of assisted braking devices. Follow topic: Email Notify on site Post Reply. The pilot is about $40, the Grigri is like $100. i switched from atc to atc pilot because of a she moves mountains trip where they required (and provided) pilots specifically and i loved how similar it was to the atc. Even if you decide to stick to single pitch stuff, it's far A single rope geometry assisted belay device with enhanced braking, the ATC Pilot introduces a system that provides an added level of security to your belay, May 16, 2020 · Einfachseilen vorgesehen und bis auf den ATC Pilot nur in Gebrauch mit dem originalen/richtigen Karabiner verwendbar. More expensive, heavier, super crappy modulation for lowering and I found it comparably impossible to feed slack without the device locking and me being forced to thumb down the camming mech. Jul 11, 2018 · Unlike the Petzl Grigri, it contains no moving parts, instead relying on the rope being pinched between the belay-carabiner and Pilot at a particular angle. ATC guide is pretty much the gold standard belay device for mountaineering. 5mm in diameter, which accommodates most single ropes. Bei richtiger Anwendung ist das GriGri ein sehr gutes und universelles Sicherungsgerät. I recommend pairing your GriGri with the DMM Rhino carabiner, which has a little horn on its spine to prevent the GriGri from cross loading. Why? Please see the below section re: panicking. Guiding Multi-pitch Ice. Summary The Grigri, Smart, Click Up, and Mega Jul are all going to be better devices. Jul 29, 2019 · Petzl GriGri + Petzl Reverso 4. Smoother, never failed, very very very ergonomically though out. May 28, 2024 · The main reason why we think the Black Diamond Pilot is best used in a gym environment is because it’s not very smooth. Apr 21, 2025 · Sneak Peak: Black Diamond ATC Pilot and Momentum Rock Shoe . We currently use a Black Diamond ATC Guide, so we are comfortable with tubular devices. The Pilot will join a growing list of semi-auto tubers on the market such as the Edelrid Jul², Mammut Smart and Salewa Ergo. If you want an assisted braking device, spend the money and get a grigri. First, sorry for a long rant! As a background, while belaying a lead climber, indoor I usually prefer a grigri if the climber is working a route and expects to be hangdogging, or if they are trying to flash at their limit, but generally use an atc if they are aiming for an easy flash or a redpoint on a previous worke Oct 1, 2019 · There are two major differences between for example, a Grigri and ATC Pilot. Beginner climbers may prefer the new Grigri + because of its anti-panic handle. 1 of 2 Original Post. Sep 21, 2023 · Compared to manual tube-style devices like the Black Diamond ATC-XP, the GriGri is a far more comfortable option for lengthy belays and projecting. 0 und ATC Pilot shr gut, mit dem Lifeguard braucht es aber Konzentration und einen kräftigen Grip der Bremshand. When I teach people to belay I always have them learn on an ATC as I’ve seen too many climbers depending on the assisted braking of other devices, leading them to do unsafe things like take their hands off the brake strand without tying off the belay. Dec 6, 2016 · The lightweight Black Diamond ATC Pilot represents an advance in technology for the world of assisted braking devices. seminar where the main instructor indicated that he is comfortable using the ATC in guide-mode without always having a hand on the brake-side of the rope because when used that way, it is an "auto-locking device. Can you go hands free with a GriGri? NAVIGRAPH Data Issue. The grigri2 I’ve had for 10 years now is still working fine. GriGri, specifically for top-belay I recently attended a two day trad. 7 Tendon at the mo) but yesterday I could hardly push an old 10mm rope through, and gave up on it. Mar 16, 2022 · Bonjour, j’ai testé pendant de longues périodes : L Atc bd ( tube) Le grigri Le revo Le smart Le Jul2 Je les maîtrise tous parfaitement, et je pense que chacun a des avantages et des inconvénients, l’idéal et de pouvoir les choisir ( donc les maîtriser selon la situation) mais on ne se balade pas forcément avec tout ce matos. WARNING: with NEOX, but also with GRIGRI and GRIGRI +, on thin or new ropes, if the rope isn't held, it will slide through the device under i Vote for BD ATC Pilot. I didn't like GriGri, but it felt safer than regular atc. when used correctly an ATC is a time-tested, effective device. Use an ATC on trad climbing or if you are using half/twin ropes. Providing an added level of security to your belay, the ATC Pilot threads similarly to other tubular belay devices and accommodates ropes from 8. Sep 7, 2020 · The original Grigri was released back in 1991 and was updated to its current model in 2011. If you are within reliable listening range (6 mi/10km) of an airport please consider becoming a LiveATC feeder site. 1 Grigri and 1 Guide/Reverso/whatever per team. i don’t know if i’d ever use anything else now although i haven’t tried anything other than grigri, atc, and now pilot. It is possible to rappel with the device using a single rope (like in simul-rappelling), but it’s not capable of double rope rappelling. I own: Chain Link, Sticth Plate (sans spring), ATC, ATC-XP, ATC-Guide, GriGri, Alpine UP. Dec 13, 2023 · Both the GriGri and the ATC have strengths and weaknesses, and an experienced climber should be able to use them nearly interchangeably. Otherwise we would have bought 200 of them from BD. A crucial component of climbing safety lies in the belay device. At quick glance The Grigri+ looks very similar to the standard Grigri but it does have a few additional features that sets it apart. GriGri & GriGri+ Differences. s. Since the 90s, climbing belay devices have continually developed, particularly in the assisted braking device category. com/jbmountainOr buy a Sling Mountain T Shirt?! https://teespring. Das klappt mit Smart 2. An ATC is more delicate as its proper use requieres more attention and experience. The Grigri makes belaying easier and safer thanks to the cam-assisted braking mechanism. [Photo] Chris Van Leuven BD ATC Pilot Review By Marc Piche, ACMG Mountain Guide. Eventually, you can upgrade to a device like the ATC Guide, or Petzl Reverso for outside multi-pitch routes. If you are getting value out of my videos and wanna feel good - consider suppor Mar 15, 2023 · Stoked for climbing season? Let’s chat belay devices. Dec 5, 2024 · One of the more popular early models was the Black Diamond ATC ("Air Traffic Controller"), and this acronym is sometimes used to refer to the entire category in North America. Use a Grigri. F*ck grigri Nov 22, 2023 · That way I usually don't get short roped or dropped. There is a really good reason that if you go to any hard sport crag you see a zillion of them. Although the original ATC is still available, many of today's best-performing tubes are asymmetrically shaped to give stronger braking force. Some climbers prefer the ATC because the GriGri favors right-handed belayers. Easier nose to release the auto blocking setup vs the ATC Guide that takes a small runner or the nose of a binner. Oct 9, 2023 · This is closer to the Grigri-style of lowering a climber. As with other assisted braking belay devices, the ATC Pilot is intended to make catching and holding falls easier than with a standard tube-style device. That said, it's worth comparing the GRIGRI + to the GRIGRI 2 as the latter will be familiar to many reading this review. Het touw gaat eenvoudig door de Grigri heen bij het uitgeven en inhalen. Click Up har en kant som karabinen naturlig legger seg i, og forhindrer låsing. I wear out an ATC about every year, so this could be a very nice feature. ) I also sometimes use non-assisted tube device (Reverso, ATC, etc) or a Munter / Super Munter hitch, but with an auto-block ("third hand") friction hitch (Prussik) on the brake strand to my leg loop. Apr 16, 2022 · I am an experienced climber and have previously used ATC type belay devices for many years. I like both of assisted braking belay devices you mentioned and was very sceptical about Pilot. Paul Deger James and Steve McClure walk us through the New @PetzlSportVideos Neox. I prefer the Edelrid Mega Jul because it's a little more versatile, but the ATC Pilot is pretty similar and certainly a great choice for single pitch belays. 8-11mm) is the closest in shape to the Pilot. I've been eyeing a grigri recently as holding tight on the ATC for braking when my lead partners are taking rest starts to wear on my hands during the 3 hour sessions. Save yourself the trouble. as mentioned above the atc seems like an off/on Grigri plus is basically designed for new climbers, it's not a "new" or "upgraded" model. Grigri Vs Atc Reddit Pilot Safety Das Sicherungsgert Von Black Diamond Im Test Bergzeit Magazin. Beim ATC Pilot von Black Diamond handelt es sich um ein Sicherungsgerät, das im Handling ähnlich wie das Salewa Ergo Belay funktioniert – allerdings karabiner-unabhängig, was angesichts des Salewa-Karabiners ein Pluspunkt ist. Dec 1, 2023 · Wild Country Revo – #2 Most Wanted Mechanical Belay Device. But rest assured that the two pieces of equipment have been proven to protect and make the climbers safe . The Petzl Grigri, Trango Cinch, Mammut Smart, Edelrid Megajul and others have been around a while, so BD is the new kid on the block (pun intended) here. Apr 11, 2013 · In reply to Chambers: for twenty years until recently I've been happy enough with an ATC type, but now have a click-up - it being nearer to an ATC type than a gri-gri. 2 days ago · GriGri and ATC are easy to use and improve the quality of the belaying process. Petzl GriGri + Black Diamond ATC Guide. “The belayer must continuously hold the brake side of the rope, even while the climber is stopped. GriGri are great. Dec 11, 2016 · New Black Diamond ATC Pilot. As well as watching the event, we managed to try a couple of up and coming products, the ATC Pilot and Posted by u/B3ta2k0 - 17 votes and 94 comments We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I see a lot of sloppy belaying with ATC's as well, and the result of a sudden fall is much more severe if the belayer uses an ATC. Like with many assisted-braking belay devices, a Understand the differences between all Belaying Devices and Learn how to use any of them Safely and Efficiently. Jun 4, 2021 · Kit Linked Below!Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! https://www. Jun 4, 2024 · Da soll das Seil ja schön dosiert durchlaufen. Jul 18, 2017 · 上世纪 90 年代初的时候，Petzl 结合两个八十年代时期的设计（STOP，有自动锁住功能的下降器；SOLO，有自动锁住功能的上升器）推出了新一代攀岩保护器 – 龟龟（GriGri）。GriGri，在法语里有“带来运气”的意思，其词语起源 Oct 1, 2024 · In unserem Sortiment findest du verschiedene ausdrücklich vom DAV empfohlene Sicherungsgeräte: Sehr verbreitet sind das Petzl Grigri und GriGri Plus, das Mammut Smart 2. Then I tried the pilot and it was love at first belay. Maybe the ATC Pilot is a little more intuitive to learn because it has the pistol grip. 现在 BD 还出品了一个单槽的被动锁住保护器 ATC Pilot（ BD 新出了一款保护器 ），也是蛮适合岩馆使用的。 另外，关于保护器使用寿命，请参考各品牌的保护器说明书为准。 Belayers must select the type of belay device they wish to test on, either a "Tube Style Device" (such as the ATC, Reverso, etc) or an Assisted Braking Device (such as the Grigri, MegaJul, ATC Pilot, etc). Monica Daniel Outdoor Gear October 14th, 2020 - 04:42:20. GriGri2 pays out slack very easily when you get the hand positioning right, makes the falls/hanging a lot more comfortable (especially when the belayer is off the ground), prevents rope slip when people are hanging, and lowers very smoothly. With the latest release of AIRAC data, Navigraph failed to include the download file used by the P2A Navigraph Auto Updater. Sale Ends May 26 . Ideal for single-pitch projecting burns, the ATC Pilot is a must-have for every climber's gear collection. Dec 22, 2022 · Both devices have advantages and disadvantages. With the right combo it will theoretically catch a climber by itself. We have been climbing for about 2 years so we are relative newbies – we are mainly focused on outdoor sport climbing. As others have suggested it works fine with a clean thinner rope (I've got a 9. Edit: Also on wrapped anchors that are on the stiffer side you can also notice the pully efficiency of a grigri being closer to 35% vs a carabiner at nearer to 50% as your brake hand contributes more heavily to the pull. DMM Pivot – guide mode dream; Mammut Smart 2. If bringing the Grigri, leader gets a Grigri belay and follower gets an ATC auto-blocking plaquette belay. Kong Gi-Gi + Petzl Reverso 4. Those who prefer the camming style brake assist of the GriGri, CAMP Matik, Mad Rock Lifeguard, Edelrid Eddy etc would need to change their belay style since it is a different action. In September Black Diamond and Visit Innsbruck teamed up to invite UKClimbing, among others, to the World Youth Championships. Wild Country Revo, Petzl GriGri (or Petzl GriGri+), Black Diamond Pilot, or the new Wild Country Revo. Black Diamond ATC Pilot Rock Nov 28, 2011 · Die Videos stellen die wichtigsten Sicherungsgeräte vor: Tube, Grigri, Smart, Ergo / ATC Pilot, Jul² und Click Up werden vorgestellt und ihre richtige Anwendung gezeigt. The key advantage of using a GriGri for rappelling is the ability to lock down on the rope without continual stress from the belayer, allowing a climber to go up a rope at a more comfortable angle. De GriGri is blokkeert zodra het touw plotseling onder spanning komt te staan, bijvoorbeeld bij een val. What I like: It’s light and Jan 3, 2024 · V17 bouldering, the mightiest of grades that very few crushers can attain. Two popular options, the Grigri and the ATC, have become mainstays in the climbing […] Aug 24, 2018 · The Smart 2. Bought a new Grigri and it wiggled and made a lot of noise and had to tape it. 39. Nov 18, 2019 · These devices were the; Edelrid Mega Jul, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, Mammut Smart and we also tried the auto-locking Beal Birdie. (Get the red gate, which automatically locks. If you're partial to tube-style devices but want some extra holding power and security, then the Smart 2. so now im at a point where i feel comfortable enough to upgrade to an assisted breaking device such as the mammut smart belay, the black diamond pilot, and of course the grigri. I was usually belaying heavier guys, and always used my ATC pilot. The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is an assisted braking belay device with enhanced braking. People are responding to my question, which was regarding Juls, specifically. " Nov 3, 2020 · ATC Belay Devices. Grigri 是否适合新手？它安全吗？为什么它总发生事故？ I just bought the ATC Pilot because I don't like the GriGri, but I wanted a little extra braking insurance when I belay people who are closer to my weight (200+lbs). Another device to consider is Black Diamond's new ATC Pilot, which is about $20 cheaper than Clickup and does the same thing. While you can belay a single strand on the Pilot, it’s much harder to pay out rope in the Pilot than say a standard ATC or the GriGri, which means you end up short roping your climber a lot. It will still work everywhere a GriGri 2 works, and that includes multi-pitch climbs. Aug 8, 2024 · Der Pionier aller halbautomatischen Geräte. I'll swap out a grigri on a rope to my pilot, especially at the local gym with stiffer anchor setups. Nov 15, 2015 · Moved Permanently. The grigri is an active assist braking device, not an atc with passive brake assistance. A Grigri is very easy to use, and its semiautomatic brake is really safe. The belay device serves as a friction-enhancing tool that assists climbers in controlling the rope during ascent and descent. Similar in function and concept to the ATC-XP above, the Reverso represents the crème de la crème of another category of belay devices: those specifically designed for multi-pitch climbing. Dec 24, 2014 · Petzl Reverso. I don't like using a Grigri for follower belay because the rope backfeeds easily, especially on steep pitches. R1,325 for the Petzl Grigri 2. After completing this course, you will be able to climb independently at Sender One. My advice is: Get a mammut smart, a petzl grigri, a beal birdie or whatever other assisted belay device you can find because with them you will be able to use with any carabiner and virtually any type of rope (8mm to 11mm) in any condition (Old or New) without having to worry if the device will actually work. $37. When it hit the market back in 2017 the Wild Country Revo made some big waves. I just started using the Pilot and really like it. . 5 mm tot en met 11 mm en weegt slechts 175 gram. Since the inception of the original Grigri 1, the Grigri has continued to set the standard for belay devices with cam-assisted blocking (braking). ATC Pilot von Black Diamond Kleinere Sicherheitsreserve als das GriGri und Abzüge in der Bedienung, vor allem in der Kategorie Handling insgesamt. I'm really loving the Pilot because it still forces good brake hand discipline, but the amount of friction it puts on the rope when "locked" will stop a climber dead in their tracks. This takes a bit more practice to get used to, but it's much more flexible with different rope diameters and conditions. The ATC-Pilot Belay Device offers an added level of security with its assisted braking technology. Aug 23, 2020 · as a beginner climber, i have spent some time using the petzl reverso and have become pretty comfortable belaying that way. 0 is a great choice. in my experience it is significantly easier and more controlled to lower with the pivot than either of the other two. but best to learn first on a tube style belay device. That could be because of a simple mistake – like a newer belayer mishandling the rope, a large fall, and a loose belay with a lot of slack causing a rope burn. I figure by the time it wears out completely the ropes will be thinner by then and I’ll need a newer grigri anyway. Petzl GriGri The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. The cost of the BD Pilot is R700, vs. Jan 3, 2024 · GriGri vs ATC: The Pros & Cons. The devices are very similar in operation. Kong Gi-Gi + Black Diamond ATC Guide. I also really like the atc pilot. 99. com Aug 6, 2021 · Not sure which belay device to get? We tested the Petzl GriGri 2 and Black Diamond ATC side-by-side to help you know which is right for you. 00:00 Intro02:07 Tube Style Devices06:00 Assi Everyone I've talked to has said don't bother getting the +. But why then get a grigri later? The pilot (and the smart and the jul²) are way lighter and all you need for climbing situations (not rope access, because y'know, grigri) Nov 24, 2015 · In that setting, the only benefit of an ATC is that it is cheaper. We found the I had no problem with my belayers having either an ATC or an assisted braking device such as Grigri, ATC pilot etc as long as the belayer feels safe and competent. An assisted belay device ideal for lead belaying with super slick rope feeding and au GriGri mistake that many Climbers are not aware of can result in Burned Hands. Running the rope through an atc seems to untwist the rope better than pulling it through an anchor for me. Black Diamond ATC Pilot, Product Overview. The teeth also make the ATC-XP directional, meaning that, unlike the ATC, you can only load it one way. The ATC, on the other hand, cannot arrest a fall if the belayer releases the rope. And although all of these devices feel like they can catch and hold I regularly lead in my gym using a Black Diamond ATC-XP. So a grigri Might as well get a atc guide for half the pilot, then save up and buy a grigri a little later. Jan 4, 2024 · GriGri vs GriGri+ vs GriGri 2; See the 40+ brands who make Belay Devices; Belay Device Reviews & Overviews. Feeder Site Volunteers. If you've always used a GriGri but are open to trying something lighter and less expensive, the Smart also fills that bill. Feb 12, 2021 · Unlike with ATC devices, you don’t need an HMS locking carabiner. Second unties the knot and raps both strands on the other device, with partner giving fireman belay. 0 is Mammut’s assisted belay device. You’re not at a disadvantage per se. The slack side of the rope must exit the ATC-XP on the side with the teeth, while the climber side of the rope must exit on the side with no teeth (as in the photo). Jan 15, 2018 · The ATC Pilot weighs only 86g (making it one of the lightest assisted braking devices available) and it accepts ropes from 8. However, it is important to note that this method of lowering a climber is strictly forbidden according to the manual. 7-10. The argument that GriGri's "promote sloppy techniques" is just silly. Fürs Sportklettern, aber auch für den Gebrauch von zwei Seilsträngen beim Alpinklettern eignen sich das Edelrid Mega Jul Sport sowie inklusive Verwendung im Guidemodus zum Nachsichern in Dec 13, 2018 · Grigri or the Pilot. The ATC is a dynamic belay device. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. Following on it’s huge success, Petzl released an additional model, the Grigri+ in 2017. or. The document has moved here. i originally considered the smart belay but after doing more research idk that i want to go Grigri+ 和 Grigri 2/ 改 会同时在市面上销售，前者的价格更高，适合初学者。而后者的价格更低，更简约，两者适合不同的最终用户。 知道了上面的基础内容，我回答几个关于 Grigri 的常见的问题： 1. 7–10. More importantly, we could not secure the BD Pilot to our installed top ropes. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rop If you treat the Grigri like an ATC while belaying, you’ll be totally fine. I will use a grigri, but I absolutely cant stand the Cinch. We also check out the n Sep 4, 2024 · Лучшие производители снаряжения для работы на высоте: Petzl GriGri+ vs Petzl GriGri 2, Black Diamond ATC – сравнение моделей Aug 14, 2018 · not sure how many of the people commenting about the cons of lowering with the pivot have actually tried it, but i have lowered a climber from above with the grigri, pivot and atc. An assisted belay device ideal for lead belaying with super slick rope feeding and au Dec 11, 2016 · New Black Diamond ATC Pilot. I like my GriGri for more casual climbing, but the ATC style devices are more versatile and lightweight. Nov 15, 2016 · The ATC-Pilot is ideal at the gym or single-pitch cragging, and it is similar to the GriGri in that regard, except it is also much cheaper and lighter. 【ブレーキアシスト機能付ビレイデバイスの定番】 ↓ 必見！グリグリの正しい使い方。↓ 【重要】誤解されている方が多いように感じますが、「ロープを繰り出す・たぐる」という基本動作はグリグリもATCなど一般的なチューブタイプのビレイディバイスと同様です。けして難しい操作では Aug 18, 2020 · I've used an ATC, Pilot, Mega Jul, Vergo, Smart Alpine, Revo, Eddy, Lifeguard, and all four iterations of the GriGri. And no moving parts. 2019. This is because the Grigri is auto-blocking while an ATC belayed from a harness is not. The pilot is easier to learn how to use especially if you learned to climb with the ATC. The Black Diamond ATC Pilot (foreground) racked on a harness with the Edelrid Mega Jul. In fact, many HMS carabiners are too fat to use with the GriGri. Jul 7, 2022 · Can you rappel with ATC pilot? The ATC-Pilot is intended for single rope use in the gym and outdoor cragging and not multi-pitch climbing. It provides the extra security of locking up all of the way and taking the pressure off your brake hand when compared to other tubular devices, though the manufacturer states that you should always keep your hand on the rope just in case. Monica Daniel Outdoor Gear October 14th, 2020 - 04:14:39. This class includes a day pass and rental gear. For sport cragging, the GriGri 2 is much more convenient to use. The grigri is over hyped. Show your belay device to staff if you are not sure which category your device falls into. Also like the Grigri 2 better than the new Grigri model…. My favorite device is the most recent GriGri, followed by the GriGri 2. Aug 8, 2024 · Black Diamond ATC Pilot. If you are not sure which one is best for you, here are some pros and cons of both belaying devices. For rappels fix the rope in the middle, first person rappels with Grigri on single strand. Das Lifeguard ist deshalb aus unserer Sicht eher geübten Grigri-Sicherern zu empfehlen. However, after a few falls I became more anxious and no longer wanted my belayer to use an unassisted belay device in case he/she fainted, got hit by something or similar. bvtpkij cowawlc bttbh uzlhel atlnva zcbg vic ffnn lrghzq quxtn