Dyneema vs nylon slings reddit.

Dyneema vs nylon slings reddit A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. That is comparing apples to oranges (or at least pears). 7 kN) at the anchor to pull a Wallnut 11 wire (12 kN) apart. The rope stretch vastly outweighs the difference between nylon & Dyneema, negating the difference for slings & draws. It's smooth to the touch (I live in NZ and wear a lot of Merino wool sweaters to work with no pilling issues) and feels a bit thin but mine has held up really well over the years. e. I highly recommend dyneema over nylon though because nylon gets really bulky when you have a lot of them. In a pinch, a nylon sling or cordelette is a good alternative to your normal prusik loop - Anything made with dyneema is a less safe option as the ~300F~ melting point is much more attainable than that of nylon's ~400F~, it's also more suceptible to physical damage from abrasion. HowNot2Highline on youtube has a good video comparing nylon to dyneema slings. 0s are all Mammut Contacts made with dyneema so they're pretty good and, according to store pages, they can hold a 22 kn fall. Cord is useful for creating custom-length slings, such as a cordelette, that can be used in anchor construction or in friction hitches for rappels and aid For those interested there's an interesting test done and documented by DMM comparing the strength of Dyneema vs. I think there's a clear reason nylon is chosen for slings on cams after reading the article. read about liftex® and Double length dyneema sling girth hitched to the head of the ice axe and girth hitched to your harness. For X-Pac, again not a lot of information is given, but I assume it's the standard VX07. TL;DR: IIRC, they found that the nylon sling failed at MBS and the UHWMPE sling failed at 50%. 22Kn for a sewn sling) and perhaps more importantly the mode of failure isn't consistent. I own five or six DEFY bags and several accessories, pouches etc. I still use the odd 120 cm nylon slings here and there, as it's a little bit dynamic and it's easier to untie knots. The 2nd fall test of the 16mm nylon sling provides the strongest evidence. Jul 17, 2018 · In reply to. the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. You'll need about 10 feet of webbing to make a 4 foot sling. I'd say no. This is an advantage because the polyamide slings used on ground level can guarantee safety whilst your brain is thinking of all imaginable life-sustaining measures at a dizzying height… a not to be underestimated fact on exposed They are also light for alpine stuff. no risk of a static material taking a dynamic load) and B) the rope absorbs a lot of the dynamic force of falling. And perfect an anchor setup that minimizes or eliminates knots in slings. what load is this elasticity utilized? What? What about different types of material, volume of textile? You mean like nylon slings? The HMG packs use fabric made by the company Dyneema, but it's not made out of the Dyneema Fiber (utra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene). 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Sewn slings are better in strength, weight and usability. For repeated use, probably not the best material to slide on the rope, but it will work to get you out of a jam if you need to use your slings. I guess the stretch is useful when it is put under a sudden load, like when the parachute opens. I'm trying to create a sling for an outdoor rocker- a cushion sits on a frame. Zingit and Lashit are fairly easy to splice. In conclusion, both Dyneema and Nylon webbing slings have their advantages and disadvantages. 7 kn is quoted for a 60 cm fall factor one fall on dyneema. Personally, I'd recommend 240cm dyneema instead. Reply reply Sep 25, 2020 · It is a stronger material compared to nylon and therefore can receive the same strength rating as a nylon sling while using less material. Climbing Cord. I love the rough, rugged look of the standard 1680d Cordura ballistic nylon, but I also love the idea of the waterproof nature of the X-Pac material and the other small added upgrades. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. Here are the results. Between option 2 and 3 I would opt for the nylon sling since sometimes it is useful to be able to plunge your axe and create a temporary self belay, in which case my preference would be for nylon over dyneema. When a dyneema sling is used in its place all 10kn must be held by the sling as there is no stretch. martinturnchapel:. This isn't a "you will immediately die" type of thing, and also differs by area you climb in. I have a couple of Edelrid's Techweb slings that are a dyneema core and nylon sheath. the single strand now has to take half the shared load. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. Dyneema is stronger, more durable, and hydrophobic, making it ideal for anchor building and high-load applications. My understanding is that they where trying to demonstrate that knotting your own dyneema slings is a bad idea because they can fail at relatively low loads (in a dynamic situation 15Kn vs. Polyamide is nylon and often a bit lighter but I hear the UV resistance is considerably less. 2 micro cord and been ok, but at that point, prusik/taught lines work better Ideally cord can hold knots, and dyneema is too stiff and slick to do so effectively. Used to EDC and travel with 500D and 1000D Cordura bags, then tried X-Pac and 1680D ballistic nylon. That gives a couple more options for length based on where you put the biner. These can become failure points if the fabric abraids enough to weaken it. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2*(rating oft the sling)*0. LEARN MORE. The reason dyneema breaks in those videos is not due to the peak forces being applied, but rather the how dynamic the force is applied. it's just part of the cost of a UL rack. People like the Mammut slings a lot as well. 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. A nylon sling would be more robust than a dyneema sling, but they are bigger and more unwieldy for such a purpose. But knotting dyneema is far worse than knotting nylon slings. I thought of the sort of webbing used on old aluminum lawn chairs. Currently using BD nylon runners, but I'm due to replace them this spring. It eventually slips out more than you think it would. This is based on some very dated information regarding polyester. Have had it for close to a year so I can’t speak for super long term. For the 4 foot slings, my preference is to tie them out of nylon (not Dyneema) webbing. com I carry 5 nylon and 5 dyneema slings. Lycra (branded spandex) is used in knit and stretch-woven fabrics. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). Nylon slings are a bit heavier, but having to rack 10 of those would be a massive pain. Depends a lot of what you are expecting. The 8. You can see the strength of the nylon sling is higher in every case. the accessory cord is not climbing specific so it's rated for single line loads and lists the breaking Moved Permanently. So that leaves me with ballistic nylon/cordura as my choices for external fabrics. Dyneema composite fabric is 2 layers of plastic film with some Dyneema fibers laminated in between to reinforce it. I have yet to have any issues with my Aer City Sling 2 in XPAC and I wear it/throw it around every day. 0s tend to be reached for first, perhaps out of comfort. Is there a particular reason to encircle the dogbone of the original quickdraw with the sling or girth hitching on its side would still be OK? Nylon webbing slings are more affordable and offer good performance for general climbing applications. (Don't go for dyneema strands inside a sheath as it's awful for tying/untying). I used to use a variety of the above, until I went climbing in Europe. The 150D Hybrid Dyneema used in the test is probably quite similar to the CT9Hw6/blkwov6 (also 150D face fabric) they use in the Guerilla X. So, I'm not sure what to do. That said, I keep a couple of nylon slings on me (usually one 60cm and one 120cm) as they are nicer for building anchors, extending your rappel, etc. That's all been replaced by dynema slings. However material science marches on. Bulk webbing is only available in nylon. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla Mar 13, 2012 · The result is the sling when fully loaded only has to hold 5kn of this force. The single-length sling is, technically, non-redundant, but so is the belay loop, rappel device and biner, and rope, and the 22kn sling is wild overkill for the forces involved in the rappel. The nylon was damaged, the dyneema barely touched, but critters dragged the test into the open after The other is what it is made of; nylon or polyester. This hollowblock is small, cheap, and works great, excellent third hand for rappels, great prussik cord. 4mm) or 11/16" (17. the norwegian standard advices nylon, but it hasn't been updated for a while and i believe kevlar/aramid will be the new norm -- however, nylon has worked and served for a long time, i have no issues with using it, nor giving one to my clients. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. The home of Climbing on reddit. 3 to 0. 5mm) nylon vs. 5mm would widely be considered too thin. I sometimes carry one 120 cm TIED nylon sling. Its that the DMM video was in specific circumstances with dynamic falls onto the slings with no rope in the system, which IS dangerous. Apr 11, 2019 · The Mammut Contact Sling is the perfect example of what can be gained by using the top of the line technology, in this case Dyneema fiber, to lower the weight and size of a product. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). Moved Permanently. It also eliminates the need for a 18L ish backpack. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). Business, Economics, and Finance. Since I had the scale out I decided to weigh my sport draws. Light and low bulk (unlike 7mm nylon), strong (unlike 6mm nylon), and flexible and easy to work with (unlike tech cord). As you probably know, dyneema doesn't stretch at all. Can every type of anchor take a lead fall? Some people use 7mm cordelettes(10kn), some people use nylon or dyneema slings(22kn), and some people use the rope. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. But if you consider buying a dynamic rope, i higly recommend to buy some quality karabiners too. Polyester will not absorb water, but nylon will. The insidious is my favorite sling and sold the rest. The carabiners are very good at orientating themselves, and even if they get cross loaded usually they're still stronger than half the gear you'll put in the wall and should hold most ordinary falls. I hate the scratchiness and don’t trust it for longevity- I’m already seeing pieces >5 years start to delaminate. Nylon slings. Before you link me to other threads of nylon vs dyneema, please read the response I got from Dan's team below as this is not normal dyneema. Nylon grips better. 1x 120cm nylon runner tied into what I call a "baby quad". I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations on which mater I had some nylon slings and the knots they make are a pain, you can still use them as a girth hitch to clean, in all I prefer dyneema, it’s thinner, smaller and easier to make the knots Reply mustang__1 • Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. 5mm rope is. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. The strap can be large for most but for me I like it and find it to be very comfortable. You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. Also to note, aren't the slings covered with a nylon sheath? Which would help prevent a problem with friction. on boats, silnylon is used for sails, which would be exposed to more sun and tension than my shelter, which is still functional after 20y of weekend trips. The Aliexpress page doesn't give a lot of information, but it is not a 210D Dyneema Grid, it's just a basic ripstop nylon. Seems also to add a fair amount of bulk vs the standard clip. Slings make of dynamic material are both impractical and unnecessary. The sling material doesn't matter too much, dyneema slings stretch significantly less but this won't have much impact on the 'feel' of the line, much less than the stretch of the webbing, tension of the line, height of anchor ect. cheaper; colorful Feb 9, 2023 · Slings made from polyamide are cheaper than Dyneema slings and have the previous shown advantage: they are wider. Typically when people compare climbing slings they are looking at 1" (25. dmm has a very nice video regarding slings. I would much prefer to have this anchor made of dyneema slings than rope. g. Nylon has a higher tensile and abrasion resistance. This DMM testing in the link below shows failure of Dyeema in fall factor 1 & 2 and nylon performed better. Yes nylon is stronger, but more sensitive to UV. I can get 10pcs for about $130. It only really matters of you are using it as a personal tether and fall directly on it. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). 6, I assume it is a blend of the two. I actually had to toss a dyneema sling today because it rubbed too much on an edge and tore through half of it. Even though nylon is better at holding dynamic loads many other parts of our climbing system can I've found webbing for a few cents per foot in various thicknesses, and I've read that water knots are pretty damn strong in webbing. Using nylon webbing or sewn slings does offer a bit of savings compared to dynex or spectra, but the bulk kills that for me. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. Slings are not stretchy, so if they're used on their own to stop even a small fall then they will produce dangerously large forces that could even snap the sling (though my personal, unevidenced suspicion is that the dynamism in a human body Business, Economics, and Finance. Arguably this material is more durable in a pack build that the 2. Both were smeared with peanut butter. It comes in a wide selection of different widths and lengths, making it Nylon has the knot and some stretch to help your anchor survive. I upgraded all of my slings to dyneema about 2 years ago and just realized that. All things equal, polyester is more UV resistant than nylon. However there is another to consider beyond just strength. I’d prefer to discuss than downvote - you bring up a common complaint. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. And yes we are scared of falling. Trying to get some input from other climbers here. Apr 20, 2006 · Saved Content. Jul 2, 2024 · Edelrid tested the strength of both “polyamid” aka nylon, and “high-density polyethylene”, aka Dyneema, in 3 ways: 1) a single strand, 2) in a sewn sling, and 3) a sewn sling with a single overhand knot in the middle. For perspective, most leader falls are between 4 – 7 Spectra is not the same as Dyneema. If you make your own slings, tie your nylon webbing with a water knot that has long tails (at least 2" long). I also try to rig things so shock loading isn't a possibility but I like that there is a bit of stretch in the system should I get hit by a rock and fall off the belay ledge or something crazy like that. There's not much friction involved to generate heat compared to using an auto-block as a 3rd hand when rappelling. 6mm in reality is probably fine - but you don't see too many folks using it. Cordura vs. Aug 31, 2020 · The discussion over nylon vs. Sep 1, 2023 · While all Dyneema slings are joined with a small amount of nylon on the edges to give color and suppleness, the 11mm Open Loop Sling features a more equal balance of the two, which gives it some elastic stretch while still featuring the strength-to-weight ratio of Dyneema. CT9Hw6/blkwov6 (99% of the dyneema used in backkpacks/ultralight gear) is an unwoven laminate fabric. 7mm is what people usually use for nylon. Pros. I love ultratape but for ice climbing and remote alpine rock, I have started using more and more dyneema slings. I bold branded because some users still think anything with the word Cordura is abrasive lol. In a recent article on dyneema vs nylon by dmm, a figure of 16. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device, replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling. Falling directly on a nylon sling is only slightly less shitty than falling on a dyneema sling. But yeah, I think it became popular because the military etc had access to it and a lot of survival authors and trainers were ex military back in the 1980's when paracord and Ferro rods and little survival kits in tins really took off in the civilian world. The only things that aren't Dyneema on my rack are my rope (because you want it to stretch to softly catch your falls) and some of my long slings (because some of them need to he wide like tubular nylon). rock horns for protection, or to connect you to an anchor. Nylon slings aren't dynamic, they have a bit more stretch but the stretch is small enough that they are still very much a static peice off gear. A kind of consensus in climbing seems to be that it's generally ok to use Dyneema as long as you know what its limitations are and use it accordingly. Definitely glad I got the shoulder pad; the Fidlock I’m less thrilled with (I prefer sliding Fidlock like on Aer’s City Sling) and I’m not sure I’d get it again. Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. Dyneema and kevlar is too slippery (especially when wet) and the water knot can and will most likely fail under tension. in practice this increases overall breaking strength by about 1. I included a sewn nylon and hand tied draw as I have seen both in the wild. The effect of nylons stretch in your system is negligible with a rope. I was looking at the Edelrid tech slings at REI the other day, and they seem to be quite a bit stiffer than most Dyneema runners. 240cm dyneema slings have been available specifically for anchor building for some time, and Wild Country at least, maybe others, sell a 400cm dyneema sling explicitly marketed as a cordellette replacement. The rover I use mainly for travel. Hence the name. 6 being stronger in most ways. If you want to just not think about it use accessory cord or webbing/slings. This stuff: Will Staples hold this in the wood? Any tips on how to attach it? Maybe wrap it a couple times? Dyneema cord is, not slings. The document has moved here. a basic knot will reduce the strength of the rope by ~50% as a general guideline. In the United States, static anchor material (nylon slings, dyneema slings, Metolius PAS) are very common, people use them, and are fine. You can still get ultratape at Moosejaw. So now I think my system is set, 2L tech case/sling, 6L sling, 15L sling, 25L evade, and 40L capsule for travel. Dyneema slings are prized for their light weight and low bulk, and alpine/winter climbers often prefer them for not absorbing water. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. Extreema Photo Gallery. afaik you can only knot nylon tape safely. 1x 240cm nylon runner that is rarely used, only for the biggest trees (and often as a basket hitch) or when the three pieces are in wildly different spots. Polyester is for all other purposes or if I’m trying to cut costs. Leather is outdated for me Even a 60 cm fall-factor 1 fall on to an open Dyneema® sling can generate enough impact force (16. Does that only apply to when it can be shock loaded? My extended rappel setup is as follows: Halve the sling through the belay loop on the harness 2) Tie a knot, half, 8, whatever in the middle That looks like a dyneema/spectra sling for climbing. can switch easily as a sling over my left or right shoulder. You are right, though, that dyneema is significantly more abrasion resistant than nylon. Nylon. Leather is thick and heavy. I imagine the same thing would happen between high(er) elasticity, lower strength nylon versus low stretch, high strength dyneema. His closing statement: I like the 6mm rope. . Crypto Sep 4, 2010 · This is simply because there is significantly less material in the Dyneema slings than the nylon slings currently on the market. Most common applications are alpine draws, slinging e. I wouldn't wear a leather sling. I want my sling to be as lightweight as possible. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. When it does so, the stronger, less elastic steel cable would take basically the entire weight. Shop for Bulk Webbing. My concern with this one is that the shorter non-adjustable arm would be too short. 8mm or 10mm Dyneema. At the end of the day, a $9 double-length nylon sling with some knots in it will do the same job. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. You're using the FB knot to ascend the rope. Feb 3, 2017 · The peak impact force will be lower with a nylon anchor sling than with a dyneema sling, but high enough in either case to potentially cause injury to the climber or to cause gear to pull out. It's a polyester face fabric laminated to a dyneema composite fabric. Dyneema is way better for alpine draws. Dyneema denim is woven dyneema and is very strong and resistant to abrasion. I use the rope or dyneema slings 90% of the time. They were sold out on nylon slings, so i bought a dyneema sling. Factor 2 falls directly onto the anchor with little to no rope out, should be avoided, regardless of sling material used to build the anchor. While we are not suppose to fall directly on Dyneema slings and these test are worst case, it seems like nylon is the better material, but people like Dyneema because it's l Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. dyneema is a poorer choice for friction hitches, but it'll work in a pinch of course. While Cordura is a type of nylon, it is specifically engineered for enhanced durability and wear-resistance. 5x the single line rated load. In the climbing world, that rating is the break strength, not the safe working load limit! And any knots significantly reduce the strength of dyneema slings. I'm planning on picking up a Defy Insidious sling and they offer it in waxed canvas and a ballistic nylon. Realized when I got home that I was taught to not tie knots in a dyneema sling. Dyneema is significantly more static than nylon so it essentially has no stretch so the the deceleration from a fall directly onto it occurs over a much shorter relative timespan compared to the nylon. You can use it with standard line-locks if you put a slippery half hitch in front of the line-lock tunnel. Dyneema has a lower melting point than nylon, so the heat caused by the friction of the prusik and the rope rubbing together is more likely to melt/weaken/break a dyneema third hand than a nylon third hand. It doesn't really matter in the end, you could go with any certified brand. Based on these criteria, Dacron 1. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search I've used plenty of water knot slings myself. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. Tying a knot in a Dyneema® sling weakens it even further leading to sling failure in a fall-factor 1 loading on to a 120 cm sling. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together I opted for the quick release Fidlock strap with the air mesh shoulder pad. I can carry my samsung s7+ in there with no problem. They are slimmer in width than a traditional nylon sling, but not as thin as a dyneema one, and much thicker in depth and stiffer than a purely nylon or dyneema sling. If you slip off the belay ledge and shock-load the anchor, dyneema breaks surprisingly (and scarily) easily. 92oz Cuben hybrid, but at a higher weight. Static vs dynamic ain't the same as some people already explained. That doesn't surprise me that they are thick. For dyneema I feel like most people prefer the mammut 8mm contact sling, but really any dyneema sling that has the bar tack sewn in will be perfect for using for years. Overview: Nylon vs Dyneema . Feb 11, 2016 · You’ve seen all the sling choices and aren’t sure: Dyneema, Spectra, Dynex or Nylon. Edit: I forgot a really important point, brought up by the comments below, Dyneema is tricky to knot: 1. On my sling the XPAC is VX-42 which is regarded for high durability and abrasion resistance V-Thread Material - 7mm Nylon Two Point Ice Screw Anchors - 10mm Dyneema Sling setup as a quad Glacier Travel Prussics - 6mm Nylon (Anything thicker won't bite well on the rope generally) 24" Picket - 10mm Dyneema Sling 120cm in length girth hitched Oct 29, 2007 · Yes, dyneema/spectra melts at a lower temp, but just take it easy while using it. I personally think mixed slings offer the best compromise. The slings seem to have twice the durability, so wouldn't those be my safest bet? I can't wrap my head around which approach is the hardest to mess up, which is probably the one I'd use. HMPE. Yes, I think you've misunderstood what people meant when they said "shock loaded". But the solution is simply don’t do that! Jun 15, 2020 · Bottom Line: Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema. In this section, we’ll compare Cordura with three other common materials used for rifle slings – nylon, polyester, and leather. Virtually all modern climbing ropes are made of nylon. The benefits outweigh the risks. Sterling Hollowblock: Historically I'd used nylon slings and a klemheist, or hatefully used a segment of a cordelette to prussik. Dynema looses more strength in nots and a nylon sling has a bit of stretch reducing shock loading. I'm contemplating making the switch to Dyneema. Depending on your risk tolerance, I would say to replace dynemma slings within 5 years and check the date of manufacturing when you're purchasing. 6, nylon 6. Rhobic is stronger then nylon 6 and not as strong as nylon 6. For the same diameter rope, dyneema is strong than steel. - including a few Insidious / Insidious Jr. Sep 4, 2023 · When it comes to choosing a rifle sling, there are several materials to consider. Why Extreema High-Performance Roundslings? Dyneema vs. Strength in dyneema will also be greatly reduced (by up to 70%) with any knots. 1x 120cm nylon runner, often used for a clove v configuration or girthing a medium tree when I'm not worried about redundancy. The weight savings alone make dyneema the go to option for many trad climbers and alpinists who froth over having the lightest However, it's also true that knotting a pre-sewn dyneema sling will reduce its strength, as does knotting a nylon sling (just not to such a high degree). Spectra is tougher than dyneema and will not shred as much over rock edges. I'd say that if you use thin dyneema slings the chance of cross loading is very slim. As far as dyneema goes, well, it's slippery, so is more resistant to abrasion than nylon, but again, these are ultralights, the points are made of aluminium so you wont be walking in debris in these, you'll damage the points faster than the dyneema. In the same test on a drop tower, a FF2 absolutely destroyed a dyneema sling with a knot, while the same fall in a knotted nylon sling actually reduced the impact because the knot tightened and stretched absorbing the load. Organization inside fits my needs. They are lighter, rack better and are easier to extend. Sport anchor: 2 quickdraws Trad anchor: cordelette or climbing rope Posted by u/SettingIntentions - 1 vote and 15 comments Edit: Thank you everyone for the input! I ended up going with the waxed canvas. This can't be true if you think that dyneema is more abrasion resistant than nylon. Both are probably fine but Nylon is more abrasion resistant, though in practice slings shouldn't see much abrasion if applied properly. Posted by u/prussick - 21 votes and 49 comments VX07 isnt durable because it's 70 denier face fabric is just that. Plus, in a pinch, the cord could be used for a prusik (or two), which is another thing you wouldn't want to do with a dyneema sling. Personally I like Dyneema webbing for load bearing purposes but it is $$$ and available in limited widths so you can’t use it with all components. Next one I'm considering is the Petzl Dual Connect Adjust that user archiacfrost linked to. One of the tests they do is to put a knot in and break test. Just don't load them dynamically. Sling Protection. Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on sling lifespan. slings. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. Very comfortable. For rock I use eldlrid slings that are nylon covered dyneema for abrasion resistance and untying ease. X-Pac I want to love for it’s waterproofing. NYLON. This is generally more of a consideration in apparel design, but parts of your tent will likely be exposed to abrasion (think floor, pole ends and clips). Few are really aware of it but Xpac X21 is 25% lighter than VX21 @ around 4. Since Dyneema is so much stronger than Nylon, slings made with it can cut serious weight, if you look at it from a percentage standpoint, as well as bulk. Been a long time since I used 60 cm nylon slings for the last time. See full list on outdoorgearlab. 5 can vary from 0. Even better is 2mm SK78 (eg Amare Superound) = dyneema braided in a way that creates a hollow core, so it's easy to get a loop puller in there to splice. Specifically the nylon VS Dyneema flooring of the Durston xmid pro 2+. I use a nylon sling for this. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. The nylon would stretch quickly under the tents tension forces and the dyneema would take all the load. Just go with reputable manufacturers like Petzl. Most trad climbers would prefer to make do with whatever's already on their rack (ie slings) for the rappels rather than bringing a bulkier specialty piece. here are options all solids are keylock: $130 solid/wire mixed 11mm x 17cm dyneema 10pc set $100 solid straight/bent 16mm x 12cm nylon 10pc set Mar 1, 2018 · Just saying yes or no doesn't exactly cut it. I'm making a frame out of plywood, and looking at different materials for the sling/webbing. Ehhh most 100% dyneema isn't going to knot well due to how slippery and static it is. My first choice for lining. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. Junk is rated for way more than you need. Feb 25, 2019 · Nylon is the most abrasion resistant of these fabrics. Yes, the knots weaken the sling, but I'm not sure you'd live through a 22kn impact anyway. Knots in nylon= ok knots in dyneema= less ok but still okay. BUT - when creating a situation where a high factor fall could happen on the sling alone, nylon has proven safer. So, you can use either nylon or Dyneema to ascend the rope. If not, I'll do a sling in each bolt. Notice the chart showing factor one and two falls on their dynamic lanyards versus nylon and dyneema slings. 70 denier woven nylon are gonna shred. After a few weeks in the sun, the strength of nylon to modern poly is nearly the same (with no water absorption or stretch) 190K subscribers in the Mountaineering community. My waxed canvas Insidious was my go-to "personal item" when flying before COVID, because it really maxed out the dimensions on most US airlines and could fit under the seat in flight. I use 120cm slings with a couple knots in them. Lycra Powermesh, for example, is a knit. into the amsteel, make a whoopie sling, or just buy a rope with a polyester sheath and dyneema core. I'm looking for feedback, experience, or knowledge on the floor fabrics of tents. There's also the drop tower tests that DMM has done. Because of this, you'll either want to splice loops. doubling the loop doubles the strength of the system. This shows that although the knot absorbed energy, it also created a weak point that required less force to break than the unknotted sling did. I'd Apr 12, 2019 · The Metolius Open Loop Sling is made of a blend between Dyneema and Nylon fibers, with the white Dyneema fibers in the middle, and the green Nylon fibers woven around the edges. It's possibly not the clearest term. Cordalette is nice for v-thread ice anchors. I've used Vs with 1. In both samples the knotted sling broke under less impact force than the unknotted sling. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. So why not buy… Generally speaking there are two kinds of nylon, nylon 6 and nylon 6. At first I was going to buy some sling like St'Anneau from Petzl, but then I read this article and it makes sense that sling/webbing could actually be less abrasion resistant because the entire half side of the material is exposed to the rock ledge at a time, whereas only a percentage of a 9mm-10. BD slings are probably most popular just cause BD is ubiquitous. 2500 lb 1/8" dyneema. Simple solution: don't buy dyneema slings. But I figured a fairer test would be with equal-strength nylon tubular and dyneema slings -- 2400 lb 5/8" nylon tubular webbng vs. And I'll have a prussik backup onto the rope below the belay/rappel device, so its kinda redundant anyway. They are all tested to the same standard and even though some people may have opinions on dyneema vs nylon it's mostly irrelevant for the vast majority of climbers/situations. Bad things (can) happen. 1. However, the forces it is able to hold are still very significant and if you've put yourself in a situation where you are experiencing those forces, you're also going to be breaking small cams HMPE SMALL SLINGS. If you're forced to make a sit harness with slings for, for instance abseiling, using some of the thinest slings (do they go down to 6mm now?) could be rather painful! My only question is if the arms will be a bit too long. In a top-roping situation, your anchor slings are fine: they are 1) likely under constant load (i. and I sorta am more confident in a normal clip vs a fidlock. Posted by u/patjune19 - 1 vote and 15 comments First Reddit post! Ok so I am debating whether to pull the trigger on the standard Aer City Sling or wait for the X-Pac to restock. I do always carry 1 or 2 double length Nylon slings for use as personal anchors, slinging trees, and for kliemhiest hitches. The bottom line is that these videos are talking about what happens when static material is dynamically loaded. I've only been slacking since last Sunday, and only had to buy webbing because I already had the rest of the gear from climbing. This fact makes nylon the material of choice for dynamic loads. while the 2 yellow dyneema loops were largely intact. 5mm, dyneema core) 23g per 50ft but strong enough I don't worry about it breaking during storms. I've found that X-Pac bags are much easier to clean (and less likely to even need cleaning) and keep their shape when not fully packed out better than nylon. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 9 votes and 12 comments Do you use skinny dyneema/dynatec slings for this (8 to 10 mm)? They can be a pita to untie after loading, but a thicker nylon sling might be messy to tie in a quickdraw basket. Edit: There were some good discussions on the topic of sewing your own dyneema slings a few years ago on mountain project, but I don't remember where. and yet my dyneema slings and cams have a regular replacement schedule. For nylon slings I honestly don't think it makes much difference. UV Damage Nylon is susceptible to degradation from UV exposure. In the Long book on anchors he talks about nylon cord equalizing better. without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. In reply to CJD: One suggestion made on here a while ago where nylon slings could have an advantage over dyneema ones is due to the width of the slings. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. The Cordura branded 1680D on the AER City Pack is pretty good. For weight, dyneema is incredible. The only con is cost. So dyneema slings tend to be thinner and lighter than conventional nylon slings. This post dives quickly into the pro’s and con’s along with the best uses and the rest of the post is dedicated to explaining exactly why we’ve labeled them as such. go for the normal nylon for it's stretching capabilities. Its not that strength of knotted spectra was the problem, you should pretty much assume a 50% loss in strength in any sling you tie a knot in, whether nylon or spectra. The other problem with dyneema is that it won't reliably hold a water knot like nylon will. 15mm or 9/16" should be fine. I like the space vs the tech brief I had. Although nylon climbing slings are UV stabilized, prolonged exposure to UV has a detrimental effect on both Nylon and Dyneema. 4oz/square yard and is even lighter than dyneema X-grid. Dyneema is super static which can produce high imact forces in short falls. I carry a mix of Dyneema and nylon slings. Essentially none. I like high-tech materials like dyneema, Xpac, Ecopac, Ultra fabric, cordura etc. tying a knot in dyneema/spectra dramatically reduces the strength of it. I would prefer 16mm or more for ease of grabbing and durability, but these mixed wire/solid quickdraws only come in 11mm dyneema. Very strong material. Woven dyneema is a whole different beast, but still very hard to find. Use a water knot and leave 3" tails. Some things to consider Lighter usually means wire gate, more complex design and at the extreme end - smaller overall size (tends to be trickier to use). Time alone is not a good indicator of softgoods lifespan Skinny slings do not last as long as fatter slings, simply because less material. I've been using the… I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. It is a flat sewn sling that nevertheless is a bit thicker, and slightly ovular in shape, compared to the Camp USA 11mm Express Dyneema Sling. However, I'll say that my Black Diamond nylon 18. 3mm should be strong enough (120 lbs) for guylines while being large enough for lineloc minis, and potentially workable in terms I'm a happy Paria guyline user (1. I use 6mm nylon cord. yxrsheuw abwue htd ctiens abzisaq ogcnlb rojdq filqtm ztbo macduk

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