Ice axe length for ski mountaineering reddit.

Ice axe length for ski mountaineering reddit You don't want to bring a heavy axe because it's going up the route on your back. I usually carry a trekking pole or two if theres a long, low angle approach. I think that an ice axe with a bit more length (~55-65 cm) and a bit of curvature in the shaft is much more useful as an all-around tool for general mountaineering. I'm considering getting the 52cm length (vs 59cm) as I will really only be using this on steeps - 40 degrees and steeper - and maybe for short ridge walks - I definitely will not be using the ice axe as any sort of 'cane' at any point because, well, I have two poles for that. The design of this type of ice axe is mainly for self arrest and basic mountaineering. I feel like everyone outgrows (technically speaking) there first Ice axe after there first mountaineering experience and wants something slightly more technical . is super high on the Warthog for a climbing-focused skimo pack. co. I think people often treat ice axes as walking sticks on moderately steep slopes. 505 g I can find climbing packs and skiing packs easily but can't figure out which ones are good for both. You don't want to be one of those "Rocks at the bottom, meet my bones" rescues. There are a lot of ultralight ice axes on the market. I have a set of Harfangs (regular versions, but with steel front) that I use for ski mountaineering. What is more preferred for glacier travel: static/hyperstatic ropes like a rad line or something like a dynamic alpine rope? I’d imagine you don’t want to fall on a static line into a crevasse as that would hurt pretty bad, but it seems like people love the rad lines? As a beginner, without any friends practicing this sport to give me advice, the first ice axe I bought was a Petzl Summit Evo of 59cm. For a few of the guys it's training for the summer mountaineering season in the New Zealand Alps. It really seems like a perfect first peak to bag for mountaineering. Camp Corsa if you never plan to have to swing the pick into anything ever. I think there’d be more mountaineering-specific ones if the park wasn’t so out of the way/lightly-trafficked. I typically use it as a more secure way to climb up steep snow/ski routes, along with crampons, and have as a self arrest tool. Modern packs have easy ice axe slings to carry them with. 1 locking HMS biner. Self arresting is much easier with a standard piolet than any tools with a reverse curved pick (or even a whippet). Bring an ice axe for braking and remove your crampons before glissading! A helmet isn’t required but many folks do wear a helmet on principle any time they are using sharps (crampons or ice axe). I’m from the Midwest so I dont get many hiking opportunities. Ropes for ski mountaineering: Edelrid Rap Line (you can climb on this). Once you have those skills, it can replace both for most any mountaineering. I find that longer axes are not useful for ski-mountaineering because in less steep terrain I would prefer to be using ski poles or maybe even a whippet (although I don’t like my whippet much). So i have one axe for everything. MSR or mountain hardwear for tents and camp-related stuff. But for a walk up, I'd stick with a straight axe with no grip. As others have said, glissading is entirely optional and while it is fun, it definitely increases the chance of injury. Super well thought out and light. When the terrain does get steep, a shorter axe is an aid because it is easier to lift and plunge or even swing if needed. Don't be fooled by elevation, the actual nature of the routes is different than elevation might indicate. And it comes in a long enough length to actually use as a general mountain axe. This is common, for example, for approaching alpine rock climbs in the Cascades. Aug 21, 2023 · My current mountaineering axe is 70cm and is heavy. Disassembled shovel and probe go in the stretch mesh front shove-it pocket. I would typically use it for things like regular summiting, rock and ice climbing and ski touring or a combination of said activities. I really stay away from ice for the most part, but may use it to get up a 5ft section of an ice slab/bulge, but generally not purely vertical. There's not much to it. - A-frame ski carry, for carrying them on the sides. about 12-20L size) for light summit-type activities. Ice axe sizes state the distance from the tip of the axe to the top of its head; sizes are listed in centimeters because ice axes originated in Europe. The things that are most important to me it really does well - ski carry A or diag, nice helmet carry, big hip belt pockets, load lifters, separate waterproof section for avy gear, ice axe loops (2), hydration bladder pocket and "insulated" hose holder (in the shoulder strap, really good down to about 10F or so I've found, just backflush the 2. You'll be happy you have one The primary use of an ice axe is protection against a fall, secondary is self arresting. I was cheating with a 56 cm Grivel Super Courmayeur with an Evolution pick that could go back and forth between mountaineering and water ice/alpine ice routes, but thinking a lighter axe might be nice. With a range of options available, including short, medium, and long length axes, it’s important to understand the factors to consider to make an informed decision. Same for the pants. Functional space for tools like poles, crampons, axe. For your height, 50-60 cm is the recommended ice axe length. We're planning to walk in from Guthega and camp for three nights on Mt. I have pretty packable/lightweight setup and can get everything for a 2-3 day trip into the pack. As the title implies, I'm looking at picking up a Petzl Summit for climbing colouirs and steep snow. I'm 6ft tall and a 70cm length ice axe is a good length for me for glacier climbs. Since you are on budget, my suggestion is to get the cheapest walking ice axes possible, simond, omega pacific or anything on sale. You can get away with most everything in the Adirondacks in winter without mountaineering boots. They work on moderate slopes 40-70 degrees of hard packed snow, and some ice (I haven't run into Blue Ice yet though), if you frontpoint. One or two tours and hopefully an ice/rock course with the local alpine club. The reverse curve makes the pick easier to remove from hard ice. And that’s mainly to do with general-mountaineering axes, as technical ice-climbing axes/ice tools have less variation in this department; most are about 50 centimeters long. I think quality of ice has more to do with safety than ice screw length. 5kg also from lowe alpine You need an ice axe. It will work better Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 10 votes and 11 comments 13 votes, 31 comments. so I generally go for much shorter axes since theyre only coming out on high angle or exposed stuff. , Expedition, Traverse, have held up the best. I would rent ice axe, mountaineering boots and crampons on site, but i want to make sure the pants and jacket was correct since athletic website can be confusing on what to pick. Microtraxion. I love the external crampon pouch, and use it for big water bottles in the summer climbing season. Watch a couple YouTube videos to get a feel for the movement of self arrest and dos/don’t of glissading. This is not so much for pure ice climbing, but I would love to be able too strike the ice if I end up meeting it on a climb. I read a recent accident report of someone falling on top rope (due to stretch in the dynamic rope used to lead the route) and bashing their head bad. Ice axes are crude instruments. It seems you need 2 outer layers after your mid layer and i was unsure of if that was needed. That’s why many more advanced climbers prefer shorter axes - they just don’t need the ax until things are quite steep, they’re fine with ski poles or nothing until then, and on that steep terrain a shorter ax will be better for swinging or dagger position or other things than A slight curve can also be ok, but generally speaking it's for more special use cases. Mine is packed for Ice Climbing today. We had a lazy morning and the other two parties were underway before us, one on skis the other on snowshoes. It’s pretty short for the lower angle terrain but so small and light I never hesitate to take it when the need is questionable. Jul 2, 2018 · I'm looking for some advice on an ice axe. I like the finger thing on the gully as well but the one you suggested looks good One or two tours and hopefully an ice/rock course with the local alpine club. If you have a rubber handle) Can pair it with a single climbing axe (like a Quark) on the pitches too. The John Muir Trail passes through what many backpackers say is the finest mountain scenery in the United States. The gully and ride are perfect tools for either mellower alpine mixed climbs and/or ski touring but I would get a longer axe for general mountaineering if you’re slumming it on foot the whole time. In the future I'll likely be doing more significant ski mountaineering and alpinism. However, I would look at the 50cm options first. Ice ax: Just get a basic axe with leash. Venom is a good compromise Choosing Ice Axe Length Ice Axe Length Ski Mountaineering How To Select Ice Axe Length Reddit Ice Axe Length Rhea Lowery Outdoor Gear February 01st, 2020 - 03:47:22 One of the most loved family exercises or excursions is camping. I recently was getting into ski mountaineering and discovered whippets. BD Traverse that I retired from ski touring a few years ago. I recently picked up a Blue Ice Warthog 45, however, and it has become my new go-to. Ice axe in one of the ice axe loops. I want a beginner mountaineering experience, crampons and ice axe, etc. For morale-related comfort food: oreos. They're all pretty light. It comes in a few sizes, probably want ~50-60cm for your needs. I really like the Black Diamond Mission 35. If you have mountaineering boots, you can get step-in crampons. Hi all, I’m planning my first mountaineering trip for this summer and just beginning research, but I have many questions. Michael Covington is on the cover climbing Mt Kilimanjaro I believe. Looking at buying a ski mountaineering oriented ice axe after lugging my 60cm straight shaft ice axe around. Doesnt really matter which brand. Huge plus if it comes in a modest (maybe 50L) size for 1-3 days, and a bigger (maybe 80-90L) size if I decide to hit some long trips, but not required on the two sizes thing because I’ve yet to hit any long trips. To find the right length ice axe based on your size, hold it while standing upright and relaxed with your arms by your sides. 240cm sling. The whippet takes the place of the long axe, but is lighter and more useful and comfortable in general. Anything 30 degrees and under I feel like the chances of slipping are small, and don't need to plunge the ice axe as a self belay. Fixed length ski poles in 7000 series aluminum are 1/4 to 1/3 the cost of adjustable poles , are stronger and you never have the adjustment mechnism either get stuck or start slipping. The hammer is for placing pitons and the curve provides clearance climbing steep snow in high dagger mode. Crampons are in a crampon bag in the main compartment. My buddy who climbs a lot of water ice, climbs/skis in the Alaska Range, annual trips to Chamonix, etc. Prioritize getting a ski boot that can comfortably mountaineer. a 35+10L lowe alpine climbing/mountaineering pack that's around 1. I want to use them both on ice and mixed climbing in lower grades and also as single ice axe for skitouring, i prefer something lighter even at the cost of durability, since i wont be using them that many times in a sesons, alason something less curved and technical than nomics. true. I'll also second the OR Bitterblaze gloves, they rock. Longer axes will facilitate descending and downclimbing. There may be snow conditions where the longer ice axe pick can penetrate deeper, providing more friction during the arrest. I'm climbing Kautz with Alpine Ascents in June and wanted some advice on ice tools. Also, ice axes are not walking sticks and will not replace poles. In theroy if you acually thinking about jamming the axe into cracks then you need a T rated axe, but I highly double you would do so based on your experience. Hello all. We look at both straight and curve shaft options with a wide variety of uses, including technical, vertical ice climbing, ski mountaineering, and glacial travel. g. I rarely use ropes and stuff, but have done some straight up ice climbing--used a curved pair of specialty ice climbing axes, ice anchors, a moving belay climb. I'm currently looking at getting a new ice axe, right now I have the Petzl Summit. Love my blue ice pack. I don’t know what length will fit in your pack, but the 45cm ice axes without steel spikes (i. I have used it for overnight ski tours, overnight winter mountains, ice climbing, rock climbing, etc. I have a 45cm and use it for all general mountaineering and ski mountaineering (lots of steep snow). Three parties spent that night at LBS. Nov 29, 2023 · However, determining the appropriate length for your mountaineering ice axe can be a daunting task, especially for beginners or those without much experience in ice climbing. Posted by u/Kerosene91 - 9 votes and 3 comments 50% of my winter activities would be considered general mountaineering and hiking, 30-40% alpinism (dual ice axe scrambling etc. The most important factor of an ice axe is its length. Also be aware if you glissade for any length of time, your pants/shorts/lower back may get soaked and you'll have numb Dec 25, 2024 · Ski mountaineering axe. For a lot of less technical stuff (spikes instead of crampons, no rope) I use a Black Diamond Distance 15 vest. Ie. true The ice axe stay on the ice axe loops and clips under the side compression straps of the pack. Generally i'd say because of a mix of conditions, being well traveled glaciers, snow conditions (this year is particularly dry, already almost only ice on the glacier or very shallow snow layer) and other alternatives, being placing an ice axe in a t-slot and the other anchor being a crampon with a sling, a bottle, a backpack or an ice screw if Heading out to Blue Lake in Kosciuszko National Park, Australia's ice climbing crag 1. Otherwise get a Petzl gully (the ultimate ski mountaineering axe), slightly heaver, way more functional. AAI requires a hammered ice tool such as the Quark, but also a hybrid axe measuring between 50-59cm such as a Petzl Sum'Tec, Petzl Summit Evo (a bit less of a hybrid I guess), or the BD Venom. While grasping the head of the axe (between the pick and adze), the spike should come about to your ankle bone. I have a black diamond ice axe that works great for me. Posted by u/beccakat3 - 3 votes and 20 comments Related Mountaineer Mountaineering Mountaineering Climbing Outdoors Sports Outdoors and Nature forward back r/CampingGear A community to get advice and to show off camping and backpacking gear. Neither shovel nor axe tore the shove-it panel. Agree with this. Honestly, 50L is really big for most ice climbing adventures. "Les Batons d'Alain" is a French made ski mountaineering specific fixed length pole with grips extending well down the shaft. A whippet. My crampons (strap-on) work with snowboarding boots as well as my regular winter hiking boots. I would recommend down climbing the first bit to just get a feel for the snow consistency and conditions. I have a BD Raven Pro 70cm (older model with the straight shaft before the bend was added) that I used to climb Mt. Because low weight is the main design priority for ski mountaineering axes, their minimalist shaft is short and usually only ‘B’ rated. I'm looking to get into ice climbing but only have a straight shaft ice axe for mountaineering/ski touring. I think that anyone who is thru-hiking should carry one of these over an ice ax as it weighs a lot less and makes a dual-use out of your trekking pole. IME, most mountaineering are tougher on poles than most ski touring routes. But what is required: An internal frame pack. They would be perfect for your intended use. Get a non-technical ice axe. But that shouldn't be you first ice axe you buy then. I think it’s one of the lighter axes that still has a steel head instead of Al-yew-min-ee-um. 2 purcell prussiks (1 long 1 short). They walk up bigger and steeper things that start needing more equipment and skills, eg ice axe, crampons and knowing how to use them. The friction of your body, skis, pack on the snow. If you're doing graded routes (scrambles/low grade winter climbing if you're a brit) you'll probably be happy on gentle ground anyway and the reduced weight and bulk makes for a much nicer carry in the hand. If you go crazy and wanna climb 50 degree walls I would prefer two ice axes with a bended shaft. What are your favorite/must have features for a ski mountaineering backpack? Here are some examples of features and must have-s: - Avalanche safety pocket for shovel and probe, MUST. However, personal preference and the slopes you expect to typically encounter may shorten the length. The alternative is to do the same but with a RescYou rather than the microtraction. I haven't been impressed with the various attachments that hold the ice axe shaft to the pack; it looks like your pack doesn't even have them. Ideally, you never have to arrest, but you likely will want protection on the steeper slopes. They come in various sizes and could easily fit inside a pack. ) and the rest ice climbing, with occasional ski touring. Could potentially see torso length issue. IME, BD Al alloy poles, e. Looks like a good choice. A long, straight shaft ice axe is very appropriate (perhaps even desirable) on Rainier (DC or For example, one of our guides is 6’1″ (185cm) and their longest ice axe is 60 cm. I have heard mixed opinions about having a leash on your ice axe (we're talking general mountaineering ice axes, not ice tools for ice climbing). Baker and Mt. 3kg, and has very few bells and whistles: no mesh pockets or anything like that, definitely more for mountaineering than hiking a 55 + 10 traditional style hiking pack that weighs around 2. Use it for skiing, ice climbing and mountaineering. The things that are most important to me it really does well - ski carry A or diag, nice helmet carry, big hip belt pockets, load lifters, separate waterproof section for avy gear, ice axe loops (2), hydration bladder pocket and "insulated" hose holder (in the shoulder strap, really good down to about 10F or so I've found, just backflush the a 35+10L lowe alpine climbing/mountaineering pack that's around 1. Does anyone have any comments in relation to the real life capacity of the BD Distance 8L and 15L packs? I would normally envisage carrying 2 axes 2 poles (on outside), crampons, petzl altitude harness, 500ml water, puffy jacket, windshell, gloves, couple of bars, headtorch, maybe a 100g bivvy sack. after having hauled and set up camp. (I typically hike with only one pole. Not looking to do anything technical, just occasional steep snow or crevasse travel. For wet ice climbing I'm a big fan of Showa Temres 282 gloves. I do whenever there is risk of rock/ice fall (most mountaineering objectives), whenever there are terrain traps, or whenever rock/ice climbing. The Gully is a curved shaft ice axe with hammer and adze versions. Smth like Petzl Quark o Petzl Gully. Rad line or similar (can't climb, but good for glaciers and rappels) Dynamic 8mm half rope (can climb, but heavier) Ski mountaineering falls into some categories for most of us and the gear you own is going to be very dependent on the objectives you're doing. My first snow climb was cristo couloir on Quandary. It fits enough for a long day quite well (I can fit all of the following at once: puffy, light fleece, tights, fairly bulky goretex shell, a ton of food, 3L water, water filter, microspikes, helmet, ice axe, full size sunscreen, shades, first aid kit. Edit: and lots and lots of practice. , Petzl Ride) are designed to be carried inside most packs. For many people, mountaineering is an extension of hiking. Hope that helps you in gauging size for your pack. When my partner returned with the tent, he accidentally plunged his ice axe through his inflatable sleeping pad. They came with a toe basket, but I use the bail since my ski boot have a toe welt. I’ve used all of them to build anchors, I just try to save the longest ones for anchors. 100% agree with this. Whatever long axe you can afford will serve you well. Ideally it would have a secure ski/splitboard carry system and ice axe carry, be large enough to fit a basic trad rack along with cold weather gear, have a separate pocket for skins/avy tool gear and crampons, and carry well if it's not full. If I need a hiking stick I'm just using hiking sticks, and I'll switch to the axe when a short axe is what I need, that is, when I'm into steeper terrain. You posted this in r/Mountaineering, so maybe get that ice axe. Dec 11, 2019 · Do You Need an Ice Axe. I'm about 180cm and I prefer ~ 53 cm semi-curved axes with sharp picks. This allows the spike to contact the snow while walking without having to uncomfortably bend over. It thus requires greater skill of its user to give the similar results. Beginner-to-moderate difficulty (I've completed 3x mountaineering courses and 4x objectives but my wife has only completed 1x course) I never really bought into this classic measurement of ice axe length. nomic) 2 technical ice tools Factors that cause you to move further up the spectrum: steeper angle firmer snow/ice less confidence/experience/ability shorter approach / less weight sensitivity Get it for mountaineering, knowing that it’s more capable than a traditional axe and can also climb gullies, couloirs, and mixed ice and snow better than a basic axe. They also lack a rubber grip may only have an aluminium spike. I then primarily use the gully as a skimo axe but also pair it with a mountaineering axe which works really well when climbing steeper couloirs in spring to ski. they are like the top of an ice ax that attaches to the top of your ski pole. Feb 12, 2024 · Finding the best ice axe can be tricky. And when you say you used your friend’s ice axe, was it a straight-shafted axe or a hybrid or an ice tool? I can see how you might think it’s short if you used it for hiking and climbing support. It has a straight shaft, made of anodised aluminium tubing, and the slightest of curves in the head. - Ice axe carry, compatible with poles. The judgement to know when 1-4 won’t be sufficient, and taking off your skis, or skiing with an ice axe. From more technical models that blur the lines of what could be used for even water ice climbing to Ultralite models for alpine rock, ski-mountaineering, or spring backpacking trips on the PCT. If you get into actual alpine ice climbing you're going to use ice tools not axes which are much shorter and are curved so that both ends are in constant contact with the ice and snow for better grip. It's inspirational as well as instructive. A hybrid axe like the sum’tec doesn’t climb ice as well as dedicated tools and doesn’t arrest as well as a general axe. I'd also bring multiple pairs of gloves, regardless of what you get. You might also discover 1 ice axe (e. I’m short and a lot of brands don’t have short enough ice axes for me. But it weighs in at about 13 or 14 ounces, so it’s not a hyper light kind of axe. If i need (read: mandatory) snowshoes I'll go with low end keene summit country boots. . I'm more and more alpinism focused, so the amount of winter alpine climbing will definitely increase in the future. If the opportunity presents itself I'd like to try one of the easier 4000ers and see how I react to the altitude. 5kg also from lowe alpine I bought a couple of Petzl sum'tec ice axes and build a new head made for snow, for self arresting. It gives you an opportunity to learn some basic mountaineering travel skills, such as rope team, ice axe use, and maybe crevasse rescue, depending on the course. Reply reply More replies More replies Camp corsa nanotech, crazy light with a steep tip. What is the difference between a straight shaft axe (BD Raven) vs a slightly curved axe (Petzl Summit Evo)? Will it hinder my ability to self arrest? I plan on doing moderate mountaineering this summer in the cascades, and am looking into doing some ski mountaineering this coming winter. It'll be easier to walk with and easier to get used to as a first timer. Oct 21, 2024 · Ideally, you want an ice axe, that is comfortable to handle but durable to do its job in whatever terrain that you find yourself in. Options I'm considering: Blue Ice Hummingbird. Thinking of the Petzl Summit and wondering about length and whether 52 or 59 cm. Seriously, nothing else even comes close. It is small, handy, and light weight, but is burly enough for me to trust it with my life. e. For the “ice tool”, without getting too technical would the Sum’tec with the hammer back be good enough to climb with? Reverse curve picks are designed for sustained climbing on steep ice. The DMM Spire is a lightweight ice axe that is well suited for winter walking and ski touring, with potential to branch into more demanding winter mountaineering days. ) My candidates: Petzl Gully Get microspikes at the least. I would go with the lightest and shortest ice axe you can find, as you are not going to need it much hiking the whites in winter. I even put a little racing stripe on it. If youre going to ski it, its easiest/best to not have to switch boots. Would be cumbersome. If you plan on climbing really steep stuff a curve can help stop the pick coming out. It's not the fanciest or lightest, but it is really durable, and has great features. In some situations, the longer length of the ice axe shaft can help with walking, ascending and traversing balance. Any random skimo dual certified helmet, check out skimo. Non sketchy but would like a bit of a nicer hold while climbing - whippet Sketchy to point of needing one tool - ice axe Pretty sketchy with one tool - ice axe and whippet Two tools required - steep to near vertical ice Remember ice axe = boot crampons and a helmet. Ice axes for general mountaineering, by contrast, may range from 40 to 90 centimeters in length. Steep Terrain • Self-arrest with an ice axe • Crampon travel and for that, you'll need: • Climbing helmet (No substitutes--must be certified for vertical climbing) • Ice axe (NOT ice tools) • 10- or 12-point Crampons (NOT microspikes, instep crampons, etc) • Boots that will work with your crampons. I'm 173 cm height (5'8 ) I soon realised this ice axe was too long for the routes I'm taking, and now I'm selling it and looking for an alternative (or I might keep it for glaciers. But if things get steep/icy or you swap out those frictiony pants for something slippier, whether fabric or yellow sled, you may find yourself really wanting an ice axe. I’ve been considering getting the BCA Shaxe Tech for Skimo. A few guides I've met have said leashes can do more harm than good (discouraging you from moving the axe from one hand to the other, etc. Ice ax length depends as much on steepness of terrain as on height, the steeper the terrain the shorter the ax. Last oct some of the 46ers got a good layer of snow/ice but then trail shoe spring conditions in dec/jan. Belay device (is also an ascender). Best Overall: Petzl Glacier; Best Budget Ice Axe: Black Diamond Raven; Best Ski Mountaineering Ice Axe: Petzl Summit Evo; Best Mountaineering Ice Axe: Black Diamond Venom; Best Thru-Hiking Ice Axe: Camp Corsa No helmet-carrying capabilities but my helmet fits well into the brain of the ski pack (the +10L I mentioned above). Reply reply More replies More replies What are your favorite/must have features for a ski mountaineering backpack? Here are some examples of features and must have-s: - Avalanche safety pocket for shovel and probe, MUST. o. The biggest downside is it's short size, which means I have to be particularly mindful spike control during a self arrest, and can't use it for balance on shallow terrain. Of course, there are harder routes. 2 non locking biners. I use it extensively ski mountaineering, scrambling, and backpacking. The weight shouldn't matter too much. The screw anchor, in a nutshell, is basically a prussik attached to the side of the rope you pull down, and wrapped around the screw enough times to unscrew it as you pull. But don’t plan on buying a second one in an effort to use it for climbing that would require two tools. Makes plunging the axe easier as well. In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. I'm 5'10. The average ice axe will be between 50cm and 75cm. But i'm on the hunt for somebody more hybrid, meaning something that can be used for glacier travel and technical mountaineering in the Alps. Most people aren’t doing sustained ice climbing on lines that they want to ski down. Ski edges. Maybe there's glaciers to cross, in which case ropes and crevasse rescue kit and training becomes necessary. ) ETA: I usually ski tour with carbon poles. Sleeping bag in sleeping bag compartment. Wouldnt want to do that with a stubby. Anyway, standard disclaimer, I am not an ice scientist, hire a guide if you’re unsure. For scrambling, they often come loose when the axe bangs into something like a tree branch. , ice axe, crampons, harness, climbing stuff) Petzl is phenomenal and I'm never unsatisfied. You are a beginner but you would like to climb harder stuff in the near future (proper ice climbing, mixed climbing routes, dry tooling): Crampons: Modular vertical front points crampons that can be used also as mono points like petzl lynx or darts Ice axe: 2x technical ice tools like petzl quarks that are fantastic all rounders. Fortunately I had brought 2, and was able to use my second one. The hammer is designed to smash in pitons, pickets and snow anchors. Good luck and have a great time!. According to the old advice, all of his ice axes are at least 10cm too short! Why keep an ice axe short? On steep terrain, a longer ice axe puts the climber’s hand I currently use a 50cm ice axe for ski mountaineering. Twynam, with a group of 6. gully) 2 ice axes (optional step, you don't really need to own 2 axes) 1 axe 1 technical ice tool (e. I have a similar combo with a petzl gully as the second axe. A number of years ago I switched from a longer axe (older BD Raven) to a short axe (Petzl Summit Evo) and a BD Whippet (trekking pole with an ice axe head). If you have mountaineering classes or programs where you live, definitely take one this The general rule of sizing an ice axe for general or traditional mountaineering says that the spike of the axe should reach your ankle when you hold the head of the axe in your hand alongside your body. ), while other climbers I've met swear by them. As others have said, your ice axe is for self arrest and not a walking stick. I looked at their stuff at his rec. Eventually your gear is going to wet out. There are operators that run ski mountaineering trips on the Peak - Blackbird Mountain Guides, California Ski Guides. There are lighter options out there but if you’re already carrying an axe this means one less tube to carry. It is measured from the tip of the axe to the top of the head. Keep that in mind! Now, as ice axes go, you should make up your mind about if you want something heavy duty (T rated, so you can use it as an anchor) that you can use to pound down pickets and really abuse for years, or something lighter and more Choosing the Right Ice-Axe Length. If you start climbing steep stuff, then look at the venom. I like the summit evo 55cm (I’m 5’9”) for my mountaineering axe. I'm currently hiking with a 15 y. 485g Crampons: For almost all of my 4000m peaks in the Alps my Irvis Hybrid worked well. It’s a combo ice axe and shovel at 2lbs. We will be learning and doing some basic ice climbing. You need to stick the ice axe into the snow to do that while hiking, and you shouldn't be doing that with an ice climbing axe's handle. ALWAYS buy the shortest length of ice axe available. I just used an Osprey Aether Plus 70 this weekend on a 3 day, 2 night trip. Depending on your boot size, you might need to get extended middle-section bars for the ski boots. More important than the brand name of the axe is buy Yvonn Chouinard's excellent book Climbing Ice. Jan 24, 2020 · I am leaning towards the actual height-based recommendation for ice axes for mountaineering rather than the trend some guys go with here of the long ones that are almost trekking pole size. • Heavy thick mountaineering gaiters (to Selection Process. Rainier is actually significantly less technical (in terms of steep climbing and ice axes) than Mt Hood, assuming standard routes on both. Backpack: I have run 3 day hut alpine stuff on a 28l backpack. - Side pocket with waterproof and super-resistant fabric for crampons. How do you choose the best ice axe for your needs? Whether you are looking for an ultralight model for ski mountaineering, one with a modular head for steeper snow routes and complex glacier climbs, or a solid all-arounder to handle the full gambit of routes and conditions, we highlight some key factors to consider below. Something challengi Jun 10, 2019 · How to Size a Classic Axe. His most frequently used ice axe is 56cm, and he even uses a 45cm ice axe for ski objectives. Having an ankle length axe thats too long on high angle stuff is far more sketchy than having a short axe on low angle stuff for me What other technical gear would I need for west butt? I already have a harness, crevasse rescue kit, grivel crampons, ice axe, ice axe leash, belay/rappel device (BD ATC guide), ascender, rope, accessory cords, locking and non locking carabiners My kit while ski mountaineering (partner has similar): 2 ice screws, 1 long 1 short 0 pickets (because skis). If you're a begginer and just going to do some laps on snow, there's no need for an ixe axe. 505 g The gully and ride are perfect tools for either mellower alpine mixed climbs and/or ski touring but I would get a longer axe for general mountaineering if you’re slumming it on foot the whole time. If you are aerobically ready, it’s a good first choice. So, I would recommend the Falk or similar for climbs that are ~50 degrees or less and are likely to only require a single axe. I'm new to mountaineering, but as a lifelong downhill skier, I've been venturing more and more into backcountry and ski-mountaineering-ish pursuits. It is a true 45L (Arcteryx's is closer to 30 without extending the collar), and has a minimal amount of extras but still more than the FL (helmet carry on the I have some rather old mountaineering skills books that detail how to set up both a retrievable ice screw anchor and a retrievable axe anchor. This far, using my bare downhill boots for ascending chutes (with ice axe and/or whippet) has been fine, but as I push deeper into winter (as opposed to spring), crampons are a necessity. Here's how to find your correct axe size for a classic mountaineering axe: Bd raven, especially used, is more than enough. In steeper terrain shorter bent shaft ice axes are much easier to plunge or to use in the dagger position. Rainier in 2019. This is a land of 13,000-foot and 14,000-foot peaks, of lakes in the thousands, and of canyons and granite cliffs. For general mountaineering and not climbing steep ice, I'd just go with the black diamond raven. Here are some options I'm looking at: Blue Ice Hummingbird Ice Axe: Tried it before, liked it besides the price It has the adze for making footsteps and stuff. For moderate terrain, you will want to size your ice axe a little longer than you might otherwise. Blitz 28. Besides the ice tool and a full size ice axe, the only other thing I saw people going with is the whippet ski pole (ice axe attached to a ski pole) I find ice axes shorter than 50 cm more difficult to self arrest with, so I wouldn’t recommend going shorter than 50 cm for most people. edit: something in the 55L range seems to work well for me. Jan 28, 2022 · In this update, we select 17 of the current market's best to hack away at waterfalls, chop steps, and practice our self-arrest techniques. You just need something sized for comfort. Posted by u/links4irrelevantsite - 5 votes and 9 comments 21 votes, 34 comments. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 14 votes and 15 comments Highly recommend bd venom with hammer instead of adze. I have been liking the Dynafit TLT helmet. I've spent a fair bit of time teaching self arrest techniques to university students and I have them practice with a big range; from the standard straight shaft ice axe all the way to ridiculously curved tools like Nomics. It also isn’t suited to learn those skills. The reason is I've seen it recommended that you use the smaller size for manuevering in the case of actual need to stop a fall. For non-attire gear you wear/use (e. It recommends I bring one mountaineering axe and one ice tool (without an adze). Upgrade when/if you really want to do ice/mixed (which is a whole different monster in terms of gear and skills). Posted by u/16Off - 1 vote and no comments My wife and I are traveling to New Zealand this coming December 2024 and are looking for a mountaineering objective that meets the following requirements. For almost all use cases, e. Comfy fit and weight distribution. It’s a Grivel “air tech racing” axe. I think 22cm screws are important for A threads though. Still bring your poles. We carefully considered every model in this review after considering every possible option available in North America. I’m looking for a summiting backpack (ie. I'm 173cm/5'8" and use a 52cm Mar 12, 2021 · Mt. I am already in contact with a Synnott guide. glacier travel, self arrest on climbing and while going down the simple ones like the mentioned Petzl Ride are enough. Though my primary experience with them is ice/mixed in colder temps. For example, 0 degree sleeping bag (600), suitable 4 season mountaineering tent (750), do you have hard shells? (400-700), hard shell zip pants (150-250), fleece mid layers, merino wool base layers, light weight technical down parkas (~400), helmets, rope (expensive), harness and assorted climbing gear, liquid fuel stove, titanium cook wear, light weight climbing packs (~250). lzpr eivtqfo elcgfh aslguq kshenif fatkn xutcc fxchus bqb pdvrg