What carabiner to use with atc May 18, 2025 · Connect your ATC to the belay loop on your harness using a locking carabiner. Rappelling with a Carabiner: An Overview. Jul 17, 2021 · Join StoneMan Climbing Co. I am wondering if I can still use the gear? One friend said that he would never use the biner again but the ATC should be fine. More significantly I ATC-Pilot Belay Device - Black Diamond Equipment Step 3 Clip the screwgate carabiner through the rope loop and also through the cable on the belay device. See full list on climbtallpeaks. From the classic D-shape to the more unique pear or offset D-shape, there’s a carabiner to suit every need. Jun 2, 2024 · Sport climbers can also use two standard quickdraws, with carabiners opposite and opposed. Take a bight of the rope and pass it through the second set of carabiners, going from the bottom of the carabiners towards you. Clip this carabiner across the second set of carabiners, beneath the bight of rope. Slide it through the ATC and clip the loop that you slid through the ATC with your locking carabiner. Jul 8, 2016 · However, using the 8 by clipping to the big hoop does seem to create a lot of wear where the carabiner and figure 8 touch. 5 - When all this is set up and double checked, ask your second to unweight the rope for a moment. Aug 26, 2022 · The benefits of using different carabiner shapes. It's important to recognize that by locking the gate closed, you are not joining the gate to the nose to make the carabiner stronger; these carabiners are already extremely But it doesn't work so good with an ATC, as the keeper wire usually opens the plastic clip of the carabiner. A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. 7 mm to 11 mm. The steel cable doesn't look very strong, and it isn't. Design with 0. Please wait while your request is being verified Plaquette Style Device (ATC GUIDE/Reverso): the “Ratchet” Grasp the Belay Carabiner. The rope runs over the carabiner and itself meaning that there is extra wear on the rope using this method. The motion is very similar to an ATC. One could argue that they’d be carrying the carabiners anyways, in which case the ATC would be quite a bit lighter. Use ATC’s for slower, very controlled descents. An ATC is a tube-style rappel device. We can use either single rope or two-strand rope (either half rope or twin). Girth hitch it, then redirect sling through anchor. For self rescue you can use alpine slings. 12oz . Sep 15, 2020 · Carabiners come in all shapes and sizes – HMS, Pear, offset D, and more. I use the smart alpine 2. Pair with the Gridlock Magnetron carabiner for the perfect belay pair. As far as biners go, theyre all pretty much the same. Put a carabiner through the small release-hole on the ATC and lever, using the carabiner as a handle. What makes the ATC-Guide unique is the addition of two loops of aluminum. While a few varieties are versatile enough to use for any purpose, most lockers, as they are commonly called, are now designed with a specific purpose in mind. ATC-XP belay/rappel device; Includes a locking carabiner (color may differ from image) High friction mode on ATC-XP offers 3 times greater hold and stopping power than regular friction mode; Versatile design accepts ropes from 7. Jan 16, 2025 · Only needed for an ATC. But in the gym, where the environment is controlled and nothing is more than a pitch long, an ATC-XP is all you need. Thankfully, the Mammut Smart 2. It comes with a large carabiner that is great for belaying and rappelling, I chose this package over a standalone ATC because it came with a very nice carabiner, and for the price it was a no-brainer. Yes, this is what I had in mind - not 4 ascenders. DO NOT use a carabiner as side loading them will cause them to snap) and 6' for around the tree (it's less than that but that's Use your autoblock to tie a friction hitch (either a Bachmann or a Klemheist) above the ATC. The Petzl AM'D comes in use with a BD ATC XP Tube or the Mammut SMART (which is an exellent device!). Pros: fast to rig, easy to break down. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. Mar 24, 2017 · Tie a carabiner block (I use a locking carabiner & a clove hitch) on the side of the anchor with the longer strand. The class-A canyons are dry as you can use the ATC-XP in them. Instruction from a qualified professional is highly recommended when learning any new belay technique. Oct 26, 2021 · I have a black Diamond ATC with singing rock carabiner in a pouch pocket, ready to take out and attach between my prussik and that hawk device. Just had to get another larger carabiner. Then a carabiner is passed through the loop of rope and the keeper loop of the ATC. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rap Jan 8, 2019 · However, a second locking carabiner clipped to a higher anchor piece could also be used for less money, and in general we prefer to use an auto-locking ATC such as the Petzl Reverso or ATC Guide to belay up a seconding climber, as they are more secure for this use (and a lot lighter and less clunky to carry up) than a GriGri. As the belayer, assisted braking means less straining to hold a climber who is working out the moves to a tricky climb. The right place to hold your hand varies slightly with the selected carabiner, but most true HMS carabiners do best when the load and brake strand are in a parallel plane. 5 mm range. Change your carabiner to an HMS and keep using the device. I'd highly recommend this ATC/carabiner combo. The ATC has two slots for up to two ropes. Mar 7, 2019 · Without the carabiner in place, the rope will simply come out of the ATC rather than providing any friction to halt a fall or slow a descent. The cable loop on an ATC is not structural. Moved Permanently. We recommend it as the Best Carabiner For Grigri use. Tie a figure 8 on a bight about 3. Black Diamond recommends using an HMS carabiner, like the Black Diamond Gridlock, as they are larger and usually have a nice rounded top. Breaking Strength: 25kN (2500kg) Weight: 60g/2. A climbing helmet, hiking shoes, gloves, and of course, comfortable clothes are a must if you are going rappelling. 5mm ropes, and Mammut recommends using their Smart HMS carabiner with this device (it has a safety gate to prevent cross-loading and unscrewing). Pair it with a reasonably priced Black Diamond RockLock Carabiner and they’ll last you years of all-round use. TL;DR: Buy the Petzl Freino, if you use a GriGri2. Choosing the right carabiner to connect a device to your harness. Lowering can be quite finicky. We provide our customers with quality harnesses, carabiners, quick draws, pulley, descenders, lanyards, tactical gear and more! Oct 12, 2023 · D carabiners were the second carabiner shape to exist commercially and their shape looked exactly like the letter D. 5 mm Spectra cordelette gave better efficiency than a 9 mm diameter climbing rope. Traditional Belay: The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. It can happen to anyone. It's also possible to use a metolius FS mini carabiner as your anchor carabiner and it's usually small enough to be prusik-minding unless you are using very thin prusik cord. It's built for ropes between 8. DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING. A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8. You must know the classification of the canyons to understand the suitability of the ATC-XP. Feb 21, 2020 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “geometry assisted” belay device for ropes in the 8. Simple and effective, this technique works great if you plan to lower your climber following the belay. If your blocking carabine Rotate the carabiner that is holding the rope through the belay device. I've always found that an ATC actually feels safer when catching climbers when you're used to it, as giving slack on the grigri prevents the device from locking, and remaining holding the cam makes it less safe than bracing like normal on an ATC. The Pilot is simple, light, and perfect for what it does. If you are belaying 2 followers and one of them weights the rope, you can still pull in slack on the other follower's rope using the ATC. This will allow you to use your weight to release the belay device. This goes against a climber's natural reaction, so make sure to practise this technique well before using it. Nov 17, 2023 · An ATC has two primary uses: belaying and rappelling. The Reverso does handle smaller ropes better than the full ATC (and vice versa for the ATC handling bigger ropes better), but I would still be concerned that when using a single strand of a super skinny rope in guide mode, the Reverso's tubes would be large enough to allow the load and belay strands to capsize and defeat the autoblock. This only happens with my grigri, I haven't had problems with my atc albeit with a different locking carabiner (Camp HMS compact lock). Many climbers recommend learning to belay on an ATC to build good habits. Apr 27, 2021 · The ATC-XP lacks a guide mode, so it won’t handle multi-pitch well. We use the Black Diamond ATC Guide, an autoblocking device similar to the Petzl Reverso. Jul 24, 2011 · Ways to increase ATC friction w/o using a redirect as shown in the Z-rig diagram above. 7 to 10. 5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6. Jul 15, 2010 · Evan1984 wrote:8's are great for rapping in caving, ropes course, and rescue situations where they aren't called u Also, to belay with them, it is best to just feed a bite through the small end and clip with a carabiner rather than try to belay in the rapping orientation. Only issue I've had with it was finding a carabiner big enough where it wouldn't rotate in and get locked up with the rope. You do not thread the same rope through both slots. This is a fundamental skill needed to become an Long days at the crag can mean belaying fatigue. Belaying with a munter hitch is similar to using an ATC: you must keep hold of the brake rope at all times. Hence the reason ATC stands for Air Traffic Jul 19, 2019 · Alex Z wrote: I've been having problems where I accidentally crossload my locking carabiner (Petzl Attache) while belaying someone on lead. Jan 15, 2018 · The ATC Pilot does this by simply pinching the rope between your belay ‘biner and the device when the rope is weighted, whereas some other devices, like the Petzl GRIGRI, use camming mechanisms to grab the rope. Using a 5. ATC and Lock Carabiner (see on Amazon) – The ATC, known as the Air Traffic Controller, is used to feed the rope through so that you can belay your rock climbing partner and be there to support them in case they slip or fall or to abseil yourself down in a controlled manner after reaching the peak. Mar 8, 2013 · Clip the rappel carabiner through the loop of rope AND the keeper loop on the ATC. I am looking for a new pair of carabiners to use with my ATC Guide. A bight of rope goes through the slot then a carabiner is clipped through the rope. I use the Freino with my Petzl GriGri2 and Trango Cinch. 0 Belay Device’s assisted braking will give you a hand. 3) Clip both the wire cable on the ATC and the bight of rope into the locking carabiner, and screw the gate of the carabiner shut. Oct 15, 2006 · A couple of disadvantages over the ATC Guide: First, there aren't any grooves or "teeth" to increase the friction for greater catching power and/or skinny rope rappeling. I swtiched to some steel carabiners that should hold up better, and I can replace them and the 8 when they get too beat up. I prefer the Petzl Attache or Petzl William Locking Screwgate. Jan 14, 2019 · Use this at your own risk. Learn about the pros and cons of each, and discover which type is the best fit for your climbing needs. May 22, 2017 · The method I have been taught by AMGA guides is the following: 1) Tie a knot in the brake strand so you can go hands free. Jul 23, 2015 · The device is made with stainless steel rather than aluminum, and, according to Edelrid, will last ten years with occasional use and two years with extreme use with dirty ropes. Use the ATC-Guide in the HFM when you want more holding power—typically when using small diameter ropes, when rappelling a single line or when belaying a climber working a route. 0 also and love it. Nov 6, 2022 · Attach the locking carabiner and ATC to the belay loop of the belayer’s harness. Sep 18, 2023 · Begin by attaching the Guide ATC to your harness using a locking carabiner. Sep 30, 2016 · During more than six months of guiding, climbing, and ski-mountaineering in diverse alpine and rock environments in Colorado, Alaska, Canada, France, Italy, and Switzerland, I compared the Pivot to other popular belay devices (especially the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide) in a variety of situations such as toproping, crevasse rescue, belayed skiing into steep couloirs, top Clip the carabiner (in the belay loop) through the newly created loop of rope and lock it. Note that this carabiner needs to be the same size or smaller than the carabiner that’s holding your belay device. Just like the ATC-Guide, it also lacks assisted braking. The ATC is one of the most straightforward designs for a belay device on the market. When I got i first got the rope, I tried different techniques to increase friction, but they all added too much friction for me Dec 5, 2024 · We did notice that the belay carabiner matters: when using a thick, round-stock locking carabiner, the Mega Jul held falls completely and without slipping, whereas if we used skinny, lightweight I-beam locking carabiners, some slipping was noticeable, around one centimeter of rope slip per second, even if the lead climber was fully hanging on Aug 14, 2018 · SOP is to redirect the rope through a carabiner above the device before lowering. This gives a ton of friction, senor sloth. It works fine. Feb 3, 2019 · An old-school Crafty Rope Trick (CRT): if you don’t have a prusik minding pulley or just a carabiner at the anchor: run the rope through a tube style belay device like an ATC before you clip it through the carabiner. 9-8. Black Diamond originally developed the ATC back in 1993. Take 1 more carabiner. Double rope rappelling runs the same as single rope rappelling, but with more friction. A small offset D carabiner like the Black Diamond Positron won’t work as well because it might Dec 13, 2023 · The GriGri+ weighs 7 ounces (198g), while most ATC guides weigh about 2. and a bit choppy but I find you get used to it with time. Tie a piece of chord or use a quick draw to connect the large loop of the 8 ring to your harness to prevent it from shooting up the rope when the system is slack (like a wire keeper loop on an ATC). Longer draws are generally better. I use the overpriced carabiner and it works great, for me far easier to lower someone from above. But in order to provide the assisted-braking feature that makes the ATC competitive with the GriGri, users must carry two carabiners. Note, oval carabiners work best, however you can also use D shaped carabiners (as pictured). The system should look like the video above, where two ropes go up towards the anchor, and the two rope ends go down to the floor. I like my GriGri for more casual climbing, but the ATC style devices are more versatile and lightweight. Tie the end of the rappelling rope to your harness. The rubber coating can get rubbed off if you are using a small asymetric D carabiner, when it rubs against the screwgate. Apr 13, 2025 · An ATC needs to be clipped into the harness with a locking carabiner, the rope then runs through the bottom of the device, around the carabiner, and then back out through the top of the device. The second video shows how this can be converted into an auto-locking Munter! Carabiners; Climbing Devices; Grillon Plus; Harnesses; Headlamps; Mobile Fall Arrest Devices; Intended Use. Explore Fusion Climb for fall protection equipment made for zipline, climbing, and rescue industry. ATC and spare carabiner never leave my harness, except occasionally when sport climbing, but only when trying to redpoint a route that I already am familiar with. Best Uses for the ATC. Material: 7075 aviation aluminum . Sadly even buying some crusty partners a new ATC-Guide alpine was not enough for them to get a clue and use it, rather they continued to use 2 carabiners to rappel and one to belay. But have no fear: If you have four carabiners of any shape or gate type, plus a locking belay biner, you can make it to the ground. Feb 16, 2018 · Use the ATC-XP in the RFM when you don’t need the extra holding power. Which is good advice but no one mentioned if you are using the guide mode and need to have the guide over the regular ATC, you also need to make sure you get a belay biner that can handle a Munter hitch. Secure the locking the carabiner. Jul 11, 2021 · Another difference in the ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso/Grivel Master Pro is a raised center rib on the ATC Guide. This technique can FAIL if you use a skinny rope and a large belay device! I was easily able to put this into failure mode with a single strand rappel using an old style Black Diamond ATC Guide, and an 8 mm rope. If there are not any sharp "splinters" or burrs, then keep using it. This carabiner should always hang free; tension it away from the belay device and you will deactivate the device’s assisted braking function. Similar to a Grigri, it provides smooth and secure control for belaying and rappelling. Worst case scenario, damp rope + sand long rappel can cut 1/3 of the way through a carabiner in one rap, so it is a good idea to have plenty of material there. Jul 13, 2018 · Over the course of two months I carried the Black Diamond ATC Pilot Belay Device for almost two dozen days of climbing between Rumney Rocks and crags all over Mount Washington Valley along with a couple trips to the Salt Pump Climbing Gym. This carabiner is specifically designed for use with a Grigri and has a couple of cool features that make belaying safer and easier. Aug 15, 2019 · Locking carabiners are an essential piece of climbing gear that continue to evolve as lighter designs and materials infiltrate the climbing protection market. Also learn a Munter hitch. Any climbing carabiner---locking or non-locking---is fine, although some experimentation with the size of this carabiner in relation to the sizes of the belay device and the carabiner attaching it to the masterpoint is worth doing. In this configuration, I have double brakes and double the rappel devices. Attach a locking carabiner through the rope and wire keeper loop. Follow these steps: Step 1: Clip two carabiners, gates reversed and opposed, to the harness. Mar 27, 2016 · The carabiner and ATC both had a few more dings on them, but nothing serious looking. Carabiners come in all sorts of shapes and sizes these days. Aug 13, 2004 · Kleimheist is not tied with a carabiner. You could also stand in the sling to release the belay device, though it's often easier to control when clipped to your harness. If using two carabiners underneath, I find it easier to set up the ATC with one carabiner, then clip the second carabiner through the rope, keeper and belay loop afterwards. Dec 5, 2024 · Clip a carabiner to this bight, and the resulting kink produces the friction and braking power. I want one that I can keep on my harness to belay with using the atc or a munter and am considering the Edelrid Bulletproof with an auto locking gate and cross loading protection. I have a second short bridge I made out of the same canyon elite that I use with the ATC. You can use an ATC-style device to belay a climber on top rope or lead, from above or below the climber, and you can also use it to belay two following climbers at once (or one climber using half and twin ropes). This gave the best efficiency of 87%. Lastly, lock the carabiner and double-check that the device is appropriately orientated and locked. It actually works surprisingly well, give it I'm using an ATC (non Alpine) with one carabiner and a 5 mm Prusik to rappel on my Pur Line. The prussik for a break works perfect and I’m really getting the hang of it now. The carabiner should have an H in a circle stamped on it somewhere. Name: ATC belay device . The gate of the carabiner should be facing upwards. Aug 23, 2021 · Hey Kabir, I do love my ATC alpine for use with skinny ropes. Dec 6, 2018 · Clip the follower’s rope into a locking carabiner in the master point. One of the most necessary features in a solid canyoneering device is the ability to modify friction levels while rappelling. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rop Moved Permanently. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. That noted, as a double rope rappel with the Beal Backup line, the friction is sufficient with most carabiners. The oval-ized anchor-ho I regularly lead in my gym using a Black Diamond ATC-XP. It doesn’t matter if it is locking or non-locking. A second carabiner can increase the friction by as much as 20%. We didn't have one of those on hand and tested it primarily with a Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner. The main difference is that you 'lock-off' in the opposite direction (see below). One of the more popular early models was the Black Diamond ATC ("Air Traffic Controller"), and this acronym is sometimes used to refer to the Aug 21, 2021 · How does ATC belay work? To use an ATC belay device, a loop of rope is threaded through one of the slots. Aluminum makes up the compact OK carabiner. This makes belaying a second very easy, and if you are going to be doing a lot of multi-pitch or trad, we recommend getting an autoblocking device. Jul 8, 2021 · Once the bends of the rope are inserted, and they go through the ATC, use a locking carabiner to grab both the ropes and the plastic loop, and attach it to your harness’s belaying loop. The rope is captured by two identical carabiners, both of which are attached to the harness strong point/belay loop. Avoid auto-locking carabiners to facilitate tying the hitch onto the carabiner, something I demonstrate in this first video. AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Erik Kramer-Webb shows how to give a direct belay for the follower once you have led the trad pitch. Feb 21, 2020 · This device is rated for use with 8. The Grigri is definitely smoother for lowering. 1) Petzl AM'D or 2) Petzl WILLIAM (The third carabiner with the little green ball!) I personally own the Freino and the Petzl AM'D. A couple of times I have almost set up improperly with my belay loop and ATC in the same section of the biner. The carabiner is then attached to the belay loop of the belayer’s or rappeller’s climbing harness. May 19, 2025 · Should You Use the ATC-XP for Canyoneering? You can use the ATC-XP for rappelling canyons, but only for the class-A and class-B canyons. The basic rappelling equipment consists of ropes, anchors, rappel devices, a locking carabiner, and a harness. If you hold your hand out to the side or run a carabiner with a sharp kink by the spine, your rope will be a twisted mess. Aug 15, 2019 · While any HMS/pear-shaped locker will work perfectly fine for belaying, six of the locking carabiners tested in this review are designed specifically for that purpose, and include features designed to increase performance while belaying. This pic from the instruction manual shows my normal setup (left) and my accidental setup (right). It is important to use a round(ish) stock carabiner, 12mm, for rappel devices, as the rope in some configurations runs across the carabiner and can abrade it. but the Mammut Smart is lighter, cheaper and has no mechanical parts. Aug 13, 2022 · The Italian hitch (also known as a munters hitch) is a friction hitch that works in the same manner as a belay plate. Next, carefully thread the rope through the device, making sure to follow the proper path indicated by the markings. the ATC-Guide has two to three times the friction of the device when used in the RFM. Personally, I use my ATC more still, but having the grigri for those situations where it's less If you plan on rappelling using both strands of rope, feed them both through the slot. While it’s great to have an all-in-one for some situations, a dedicated belay carabiner is incredibly helpful for a few reasons. I’d imagine most recreational climbers are closer to the “occasional” use case than the “frequent” one. Dec 21, 2015 · For belaying, I prefer to use a Grigri, so I haven't used this ATC for belaying. 2) Take a dyneema sling, girth hitch it through the little hole on the atc, then redirect it through a carabiner on the top shelf of the anchor, then clip it to your belay loop. Instead of using a gri-gri, ATC, or other rappel device, you instead use one or multiple carabiners— and maybe some knots— to create friction. Oct 1, 2020 · Belaying is a crucial skill in climbing, as your climbing partner is literally putting their life in your hands. Here at The Adventure Junkies, we will help you find the best belay carabiners that you can rely on while you’re focused on belaying. 5 feet from the end of the rope and use a carabiner to attach the loop to the friction hitch. You're probably still better off just using the prussik though. 4cm rubber wire rope, the guide belay device is easy to store and easy to operate. Attach a locking carabiner to your belay loop and clip in the Black Diamond ATC, if you haven’t done so already. ATC Guide can be used for ropes of diameters from 7. Repeat these steps until you have lowered the climber If you were using the ATC guide mode method, you could use a pair of ascenders in unison above the ATC guide instead of a prussik. 7mm and 10. Make sure the gate is facing down, away from the bight of May 5, 2025 · The Best Belay Device. Sep 14, 2020 · Comes in three colors – orange, purple, and grey. Nov 15, 2016 · Every carabiner-rope combination is going to provide a different amount of holding force with the ATC-Pilot. 1 and 8. The best and most widely-used rappel devices in modern canyoneering are the CRITR2, the Hoodoo-SL, and the ATS. :( Often the ranges a limited by the available ropes at the time of manufacture. I was originally using a nice pear shaped belay/munter biner, but it was clearly taking some abuse. Ideal for single-pitch projecting burns, the ATC Pilot is a must-have for every climber's gear collection. Aug 14, 2018 · SOP is to redirect the rope through a carabiner above the device before lowering. 1. Again, I’m assuming that you are right-handed. Use the ATC-Guide in the RFM when you don’t need the extra holding power. Eventually, you can upgrade to a device like the ATC Guide, or Petzl Reverso for outside multi-pitch routes. Here we will describe how to do a traditional belay, and how to use an ATC Guide. 7 to 11 mm Jul 29, 2019 · All you need is a pear shaped locking carabiner. This is the equivalent of a single quick draw with locking carabiners. The Bachman is similar to the Kleimheist, the difference being the cord is wrapped around the spine of the carabiner and the rope. For more of our The ATC-Pilot Belay Device offers an added level of security with its assisted braking technology. I use an autolocker for my main locking carabiner on my belay/rappel device both outside and the gym. Back-up systems include extra rope to use as safety back-up known as prusik and personal anchor tether (also known as personal anchor system). The ATC belay descender is suitable for 8 - 12mm single/double rope. Sep 29, 2010 · MattPeterson wrote:There seems to be good information on the trade-offs of various types of gear decisions but I haven't found any clear explanation of the relative merits of screwgate vs autolocking carabiners. and learn how to lead belay using a tube-style belay device also known as an ATC. The document has moved here. Redirect the sling through a high point of the anchor with a carabiner, then fasten the sling to your belay loop with another carabiner. Based on a carabiner’s shape, size of the opening, and frequency of use, different devices do not connect to a harness with the same carabiner. So, what are the benefits of using different carabiner shapes? The D-shape is by far the most popular carabiner shape. Therefore, it can be relatively limited in how it’s used. I found belaying pretty natural since I regularly use an ATC for both top rope and lead belaying. Many ATCs have dual slots so one or both sides of the rope can thread through the dual slots on the ATC and clip to the harness with a locking carabiner. Carabiner rappels are those performed without any formal kind of friction device to help you control the speed of your descent. 5mm, so 6mm ropes fall outside the recommended range. If you want to be flexible with your carabiner and use multiple belay devices, the Edelrid Strike and the BD Gridlock (which I found very fumbly) have similar function of keeping the carabiner nicely aligned. The Edelrid HMS Bulletproof is our favorite for belaying with an ATC-style device, or rappelling. To lower a seconding climber: Safely lowering a following climber who has loaded the rope, when using the ATC in guide mode, is complicated. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. Don't listen to any of these gumbies talking about how the grigri is better. Its advantage, besides size and weight, is its ability to assist in braking a fall. All have very similar functionality, are versatile enough to handle any situation, and are extremely safe when used properly. The grigri is over hyped. The classic D shape is symmetrical and naturally sets the rope closer to the spine, putting the load on the spine (versus sharing the load with the weaker gate side, like an oval). You can use the ATC on your anchor carabiner to mind/block the prusik so the rope will feed freely while hauling without the prusik pulling through the carabiner. It is not suitable for the class-C canyons. Edit: BD estimates the lifespan for the ATC at 2-5 years for “frequent” use, 6-10 for “occasional” use, and indefinite for shelf-life. Multiple friction modes for belay and rappel Auto-block release hole accepts small carabiners. Step 4: Prep (number Two) Take a loop of rope, (a bight of rope) and stuff it through the right hand slot of the ATC. Clip the ATC into the carabiner, then clip the carabiner into the belay loop of your harness. GriGri & locking carabiner; 180cm triple length sling & 1 locking carabiner (anchor material & ascending ladder) BD ATC Guide & Sterling Hollowblock (prussik) & 1 locking carabiner; Petzl Connect Adjust & locking carabiner (skip the pre-rigged clove unless I expect full hanging I use a Black Diamond Gridlock screwgate carabiner as my belay biner. ATC guide is pretty much the gold standard belay device for mountaineering. If a prusik if jamming in your pulley even a little (as I had), it adds noticeable friction. The ATC is a dynamic belay device. slots in the ATC (both slots are identical). Jan 16, 2019 · 4 - Clip a spare carabiner (non-locker is fine) to the anchor master point, with the gate opening facing down. Keep both hands firmly on the brake strand and in the brake position while allowing the rope to gradually pass through. However, I'll take your advice and plan on using a prussik instead. The belay device keeps the prusik loop from getting pulled through the carabiner. Jun 10, 2014 · Everyone is saying get the ATC guide. Bolted Anchor (3) Canyoning (1) Material. While many are good at doing multiple things we always recommend having specific carabiners per use case. Petzl William Tri-Act Locking Carabiner with Petzl Verso & Black Diamond Magnetron with Petzl Reverso 4 Nov 29, 2024 · Auto-locking and screw carabiners offer distinct advantages for ATC use. Just looked this up to double check. Contact us for customization on harness and lanyards with quick turn around time. Then rotate the belay carabiner back down away from the master point. If you are using the Petzl or Grivel you probably can't as loading one rope pinches both ropes. com Nov 16, 2015 · The ATC has the ability to not only belay, but also rappel for all your climbing needs outdoors, while the ATC sport is typically used for gym use belaying and top rope climbing outdoors. Others have their preferences for similar designs from other brands, but I am pretty confident more mountains have been climbed with the ATC guide than any other. Rotate belay carabiner back up towards the master point. ATC History. Rotate belay carabiner up towards the master point. The double carabiner brake rappel is the best way to descend without a traditional rappel May 28, 2024 · After using the Nordwand mixed climbing environments with several rock scrambles and extra long rappels, the Mammut Nordwand Alpine Belay showed little wear. The following tech tips will provide you with recommendations on the right carabiner to choose for several key devices. 5 ounces (71g). Do this while keeping the downhill part of the rope on the right side. At a weight of 2. You tie the hitch on a carabiner and the friction allows you to belay and even abseil on a single rope. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. To add more friction, you can use two locking carabiners instead of just one. If doing this, be sure that both carabiners face the same direction or else the setup will shift when you weight it. 4) Clip a second carabiner into your harness at the waist and groin loops on the side opposite your braking hand. Cons: depending on your draw length, it might be a bit short and not give enough extension. 82 oz,the same weight as the Black Diamond ATC Guide, this device is less than half the weight of a GriGri+, which makes it competitive on its own. Make darn sure the rope goes through the carabiner. The recommended range is 6. Grab both strands of the rope and double it over. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. Rotate back down. 9 to 9mm. Dec 10, 2020 · I would suggest that you use at least 40' (I use 50') though as you will need a bite of about 6' to make your figure of 8 knot and stopper knot to attach your delta quick link (or plain quick link, which is what I use. It is important to clip through both of these. Put a sling through the small release hole (if possible). Clip a carabiner to the anchor masterpoint, positioned with the opening down. Clip the carabiner that is attached to the Guide ATC to the belay loop on your harness. Oct 1, 2021 · For only $14 more than a bog-standard ATC, and $7 more than the ATC XP (with teeth) you might as well get the Guide and save yourself money later on. 316 Feb 3, 2019 · 2 identical carabiners side by side did not change the friction much compared to a single carabiner. Its unique Sep 11, 2023 · The ATC Alpine works like a standard ATC style device, so it requires minimal adjustment from a full-size device to work pretty well with skinny ropes. If you are using two carabiners or two ropes, as is done in different situations, it requires more attention to make sure both rope loops go through the carabiner or carabiners. With the rope on your right, grab a portion of it and feed it via the larger section of the figure 8 rappel device from the bottom. Rappel, using a munter, on the shorter single strand. It's much the same as in the EpicTV video (Jul2 vs Pilot belay test) where he shows two methods to lower - one is to use your thumb to lift the device while having that hand still around the brake rope (same position as regular belaying with it), and the other is to pinch the device with thumb and two fingers. . It's only there to clip to so you don't drop the ATC, not for supporting your weight. An ATC won’t have all of the bells and whistles like an assisted braking device, but it’s extremely worthwhile for a beginner to use an ATC. Petzl sells an overpriced biner that does this in one biner, but any carabiner placed higher on the anchor will work. The Black Diamond ATC-XP comes in a nice anodised blue colour which is the same colour that Black Diamond used for the Transfer 3 Shovel. Its oval design allows it to efficiently load items with a large cross-section, including rope clamps, mobile fall arresters, and pulleys. If all else fails, the tag end of the rope runs through the main carabiner attached to my bridge. Feed a loop of one or both strands of rope (depending on the setup, more on that below) into one or both slots of the ATC, with the section of rope going down to the ground on the bottom, and the section going up to the anchor on the top. Mar 15, 2020 · Belay device / belay device with Carabiner . Alternative Method The exact same Carabiner Brake, except this time we've used a slightly faster method of forming it. The differences between the Mega Jul and other belay devices are apparent with use. This becomes important as the 4 days ago · Last update on 2025-05-22 // Source: Amazon Affiliates. To attach your belay device to your harness, you need a locking carabiner, and some are better for the job of belaying than others. The friction knot tied with a carabiner is the Bachman. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. We used a Black Diamond RockLock Magnetron Carabiner (our favorite belay carabiner). May 7, 2025 · Locking carabiners, or simply “lockers” for short, are carabiners designed for climbing or rigging purposes that include a mechanism that keeps the gate locked closed. ATC-XP Belay and Carabiner Black Diamond ATC-XP ftont view Black Diamond ATC-XP side view Black Diamond ATC-XP close up. Aug 21, 2013 · You’re lying if you say you’ve never dropped your belay device and watched it go “tink, tink, tink” all the way down to the base of a route. This will let out a centimeter or so at a time. ) now so that you don't buy the Pilot or XP, and when you decide to do multi pitch (or climb with twin/half ropes), you have to then purchase a second device. Use two carabiners instead of one to attach ATC to harness. When using two-strand rope each strand is pulled through its own longitudinal opening in the body belay device. The result is a compre Might as well invest in a slightly more expensive guide-style device (BD ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso, Grivel Belay Master Pro, etc. In this respect it is very much like its predecessor, the BD ATC-XP, and innumerable other similar devices. And secondly, in order to use it with double ropes in autoblock mode, you must add a second carabiner to the anchor end which really clutters things up. 3 days ago · Feed the rope via the anchors, and ensure the harness and anchors are properly set up, with the carabiner connected through the harness loops. Once you get to the ground you can easily shake the kinks out of the shorter strand as it is free-hanging. Yes. Dec 9, 2020 · My latest find is using a VT prusik above a petzl ATC that also doubles as a tender. Now take the carabiner and clip it onto your harness’ belay loop. 899 Sheridan Dr, West Chester, Pennsylvania Dec 15, 2021 · The carabiner should also go through the ATC’s cable. ATC-ALPINE GUIDE BELAY DEVICE The Alpine Guide is ultralight and compact at 73 grams. 5mm, pairs well with any HMS locking carabiner, and lowers smoothly and securely even when it’s the 20th lowering of the day. Apr 23, 2025 · Black Diamond released the ATC-Guide Alpine about like 8 years later. Proper hand placement and carabiner selection. uifmoxjummgtzggypwcqsmxukalllvdvxyojoqisqqmzvd