Best hms carabiner reviews 3 days ago · Top 13 Best Carabiners For Climbing. I quickly searched for those and realised that Blackdiamond has an old and a new version for this specific carabiner. When choosing a belay carabiner, here’s the key tips to remember: Your belay device will influence which shapes will work best. Optimized construction for smooth securing and longer life . H-profile construction ensures best possible use of material and minimal weight BUY Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner. A. Said and done. To get some hard numbers on usability, I put it up in a speed test against 11 other locking ‘biners. 2 oz) Features & Benefits Keylock closure mechanism for optimum handling when clipping and unclippingAvailable with either Medium-size, pear-shaped HMS carabiner offers easy handling and facilitates belaying single ropes with a Munter hitch; Manual screwgate lock is easy to operate, even in dirty and icy environments; Orange marking provides a visual warning if the carabiner is not screwed closed; Keylock nose design allows for easy clipping and unclipping without This carabiner, the Petzl William Ball-lock is the metal sleeve successor to the plastic-sleeved ball-lock. With only 1. The Mad Rock Ultra Tech HMS stands up as a multiuse locking carabiner in a range of applications. The Best Carabiner on a Budget: Black Diamond HotForge Screwgate . New one has no i-beam profile at the top of the carabiner so that it is less likely to create sharp edges when the rope wears out the material. Sep 20, 2018 · So an “HMS” carabiner is, roughly, the “half clove hitch belay” carabiner, a large, locking pear-shaped carabiner, suitable for belaying with a Munter hitch. Our rankings are cleverly generated from the algorithmic analysis of thousands of customer reviews Check price. All of these carabiners will work with all of the different versions of the device. DMM Ceros Locking Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with an ATC. Edelrid HMS Strike Triple FG Locking Carabiner review Best locking carabiners for sport climbing Lightweight aluminum carabiners for outdoor adventures Triple lock carabiners for enhanced safety Munter hitch belaying with Edelrid carabiners Durable carabiners for trad climbing Keylock nose design for snag-free usage Spring-loaded belay retainer features Top-rated carabiners Innovative, robust aluminum HMS biner with steel insert at the apex and an internal spring bar to prevent it from twisting. It's always nice having Cypher's Iris HMS Locking Carabiner attached to your climbing harness's belay loop. The Pear/HMS carabiner is used primarily for belaying and/or setting a powerpoint in an anchor. at BackcountrySee ItSee all prices (4 found) 83OVERALL SCORE. With an auto-locking gate and belay retainer, this 'biner also gives us the best in safety. For me, that is a good size - not too big, not too small. Size: One Size, Carabiner Size: One size, Color: Lime, Matte Grey, Orange, Titanium/Lime, Quantity: 1, Oct 31, 2018 · I personally don’t like having to modify my belay routine based on carabiner or climbing venue, so I’ll stick to a traditional HMS. The middle row are the light/compact style, and the bottom row are the belay specific lockers. EN 12275, EN 362 Brk Str 25 kN (5,620 lb) • Dimensions: 3. In the brochure that Austrialpin enclosed with the HMS carabiners it is written: "The fastest autolock carabiner in the world. Jan 28, 2023 · The Best Overall Carabiner: Petzl Attache . The best 'big' HMS carabiner. The aluminum body keeps weight low, while the steel rope-bearing apex resists wear for a boost in longevity. Why Is Carabiner Shape Important? The HMS or Pear-shaped biner (essentially the same thing) has one smaller end and one larger/wider end. On top are the HMS/pear style. Aug 18, 2017 · Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Lock FG Carabiner INNOVATIVE HMS CARABINER WITH STEEL INSERT . BUY Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Triple FG Carabiner. (Side note - belaying the second with a Munter hitch directly off the anchor might seem a little old-school, but it’s a very useful technique that every climber should know. Ideal for use with EDELRID belay devices. The Faders HMS is a cold-forged large size HMS carabiner. I think its worth a little extra weight to carry one or two of these most of the time. This carabiner is specifically designed for use with hitches like the clove and munter, that’s what the HMS stands for. The standard D shape has a lot to do with this; offset or asymmetrical D shaped locking carabiners like the Petzl Am'D allow wider gate opening. Used for top and bottom quickdraws, as racking carabiners, and lightweight lockers. While any HMS/pear-shaped locker will work perfectly fine for belaying, six of the locking carabiners tested in this review are designed specifically for that purpose, and include features designed to increase performance while belaying. While I have not tried the Shadow HMS, the offset-D Shadow screwgate is my go-to general-purpose locker. The Boa has been replaced by the similar, mid-sized Shadow HMS. The overall size of the biner was the largest on test coming in at 117mm x 78mm. The Edelrid HMS Bulletproof is our favorite for belaying with an ATC-style device, or rappelling. “We think the Black Diamond MiniWire is the best lightweight option out there. Pros: Large gate opening; Designed specifically for belaying and rappelling; Cons: Heavier and more expensive than most other shapes. Length: 110 mm, Color: Eco, Icemint, Quantity: 1, Weight: 91 g, Carabiner Type: Locking Biner, You'll sometimes hear these called HMS carabiners, and some are even marked with HMS on the spine. There were plenty of other good (and bad) carabiners in our review. Read on for the details and best uses of each. Jun 2, 2014 · HMS Strike Slider [one_half] [/one_half] [one_half_last] Best Use: Belay carabiner, or anchor ‘biner. Keylock closure mechanism for optimum handling when clipping and unclipping. Not much more we can say that we didn’t say above in the #2 Most Wanted area. Petzl Djinn Bent Gate Non-Locking Carabiner: The Best for Sport Sep 15, 2020 · – Best Belay Carabiner – Mammut Smart HMS – Best Belay Carabiner For GriGri – Black Diamond Magnetron Gridlock – Best Budget Belay Carabiner – Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate. You can also use the D carabiner in a hitch climber system, but due to the D shape you can run the risk of unequal pressure on an eye and eye prusik, whereas an oval shape carabiner applies equal pressure from its symmetrical shape. The C. This is my primary locking carabiner, which I use with belay devices, with munters (it is an HMS, designed to take munters readily, even on double ropes), and many other situations. Apr 15, 2025 · Edelrid's HMS Bulletproof Triple FG Locking Carabiner is built to outlast the rest in its class. This device is rated for use with 8. 22% of the market. Oct 12, 2023 · D carabiners were the second carabiner shape to exist commercially and their shape looked exactly like the letter D. P. Keylock closure. Mar 25, 2010 · Ultra Tech HMS Triple Lock . The Nano 22 is hands down one of the best racking carabiners in terms of functionality, price, and weight for a trad or alpine climber. The further development of our popular safety carabiner impresses with an improved construction, higher breaking load and less weight. Metolius Steel Auto Lock Carabiner: The Best for Top Rope Anchor Masterpoints. If using a single HMS carabiner it’s best to grab one with a triple-action gate as the movement of the rope and master point could cause a screw gate to become unlocked. It's also a good belay carabiner, and can be used for almost any purpose, although its added weight means we prefer to only carry one or two of them, and use lighter lockers for the rest of our needs. Ideal for alpine climbing. Recall for Skywalker Pro Via Ferrata We have identified a potential issue with the locking mechanism of the carabiners used in the Skywalker Pro Via Ferrata and the Skywalker Pro Turn Via Ferrata Sets, sold since 2023. Important Specs; 5. If you're looking for a carabiner to buy a few of, or something for alpine climbing or multi-pitching, this might not be the carabiner for you. We got one in a strong metallic red colour. Vertical [Kn]: 25, Fmax. It does not use the same I-beam construction that some other pear shaped lockers use to trim weight, which should actually mean that it will withstand more abrasive abuse Jan 9, 2019 · We tested four light and compact lockers for this review, and found that we enjoyed using the DMM Phantom Screwgate far more than any of the others. Oct 1, 2020 · The best shape for a belay carabiner is HMS or pear-shaped. Read on for our full review. Tree Climbers use them for all types of applications. USA Nano 22 will let you rack up without weighing you down on long trad multi-pitch and alpine climbs. This carabiner would fit in the rap ring, but not all anchors have rap rings. Pull, twist, flip -- the Ultra Tech HMS Triple Lock carabiner is a great match for your belay device. Apr 29, 2025 · Mammut Workhorse HMS Screwgate carabiner review Best locking carabiners for heavy loads Durable aluminum carabiner for climbing Screwgate carabiner with keylock nose Lightweight carabiner for mountaineering Heavyweight locking carabiner for belays Mammut climbing gear for sport climbing Top-rated carabiners for trad climbing Carabiners for ice Mar 18, 2022 · Check great and honest reviews! BUY Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Triple FG Carabiner. Its round rope-bearing surface helps the rope flow smoothly for belaying or rappelling, and despite its compact size, the surface accommodates munter hitches. Pear / HMS. Aug 20, 2021 · BEST FOR: LIGHTWEIGHT. When is comes to the CAMP HMS compact Lock this is a no-brainer. We typically carry three or four of these size lockers per person on a multi-pitch climb, using them for attaching to anchor bolts, at the end of a personal anchor device, and as the second locker for an ATC guide or Reverso style auto-locking Sep 27, 2024 · Easily compare & choose from the 10 best Hms Carabiner for you. 88" x 3. HMS carabiner with safety mechanism against accidental cross load. This type of carabiner has a narrow end for the anchor sling and a wide end for the moving rope. Aug 15, 2019 · All of the lockers tested for our Best Locking Carabiner Review, with a Petzl Gri-Gri two for size reference. 0 Best carabiner for sport climbing Durable aluminum carabiner for trad climbing Mammut Smart HMS 2. The HMS carabiner and D shape carabiner are similar in appearance but have different intended uses. For those willing to trade routine for an ironclad belay connection, the GridLock is worth a look. To put it to the test, I used it for everything climbers would normally use a locker for — belaying, anchoring, multipitch climbing, etc. Length: 110 mm, Color: Eco, Icemint, Quantity: 1, Weight: 91 g, Carabiner Type: Locking Biner, Last Chance Sep 30, 2020 · The rope bearing surface is partly I-beamed, but still round enough to be low resistance. Important Specs; 4. Our rankings are cleverly generated from the algorithmic analysis of thousands of customer reviews Feb 29, 2024 · Choosing The Best Belay Carabiner. Very compact and lightweight HMS carabiner. When loaded, most of the weight is transferred to the spine of the carabiner making them stronger than most other shapes. Full review guide: 15 Best Inflatable Kayaks in 2025 | 1 & 2 Person Inflatables Review of: BEST Marine Kayak Bilge Pump Full review guide: 7 Best Folding Kayaks in 2025 Apr 6, 2023 · Carabiners: one of the most widely-used tools in the arborist industry. Important Specs; 3. Dec 22, 2016 · Compact HMS carabiner • H-profile construction ensures best possible use of material and minimal weight • Keylock closure mechanism for optimum handling when clipping and unclipping • Carabiner can move freely in all (belay/anchor) situations • Available with either screw, triple or slide lock Aug 11, 2017 · The biggest factor for me is ease of use. There have been four GriGri designs on the market: – Apr 24, 2025 · 10 Best hms carabiner in the UK Our rankings are cleverly generated from the algorithmic analysis of thousands of customer reviews about products, brands, merchant’s customer service levels, popularity trends, and more. 0 carabiner review Lightweight screwgate carabiner for climbing Safety features of Mammut Smart HMS 2. HMS carabiners can also be used to belay with a Munter Hitch, which does not require a belay device (if you happen to drop your belay device on a multi-pitch climb). So depending on your climbing style, which types of carabiners do you need? With an abundance of carabiner options on the market, we are here to help you May 20, 2020 · Best Carabiner For GriGri Plus / Best Carabiner For GriGri 2. The Best Carabiner for Sport Climbing: EDELRID HMS Strike . The classic D shape is symmetrical and naturally sets the rope closer to the spine, putting the load on the spine (versus sharing the load with the weaker gate side, like an oval). AI-generated from the text of customer reviews Feb 17, 2022 · Safety gate ensures that the carabiner can only be inserted when it is securely closed. Though it could almost fool you with its extremely small and thin design, the Nano 22 is a full-strength climbing carabiner, and it is great for racking cams and other trad gear. The GridLock Magnetron is the most expensive carabiner we tested. We didn't have one of those on hand and tested it primarily with a Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner. Wide opening in a compact design. 6cm of gate opening clearance, there are certainly some limits on what the ISO Standard can comfortably clip. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. Nov 16, 2016 · Best Applications. May 3, 2018 · HMS carabiners work best at the master point. HMS indicates that the carabiner is designed with a wide, more symmetrical top that works well with a Münter hitch. Feb 28, 2018 · The Omega Pacific Jake Screw carabiner, another round stock HMS carabiner, also best used for belaying, does not even fit in a hanger. Austrialpin sent us the new models and asked us to take a close look at the carabiner and form an honest opinion. Apr 15, 2020 · The RockLock Twistlock is a very large, round stock HMS style carabiner that works great as master points on anchors, as shown here. The HMS Bulletproof FG is an innovative and robust HMS carabiner with a steel insert at the apex and an internal spring bar to prevent cross loading. LOCKING CLOSURE Aug 31, 2021 · Reviews of the Other 7 Carabiners We Tested. Sep 10, 2020 · Austrialpin launched a new Autolock carabiner a few weeks ago: the HMS Rondo. Petzl Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with a Grigri. Related Searches. These tend to have a wide gate opening and are easy to attach to belay devices and ropes. Mar 31, 2025 · Easily compare & choose from the 10 best Hms Carabiner for you. Value. DMM Phantom Screwgate. 5" • Weighs 91 g (3. The 12 carabiners we tested arranged by size, with a GriGri for scale. Jan 23, 2024 · The 15 lockers tested in this review include six different styles of locking mechanism: the classic screw lock, three double-action twist auto-lockers (Petzl Sm'D, Petzl Freino, and Black Diamond RockLock Twistlock), a triple-action twist auto-locker (Edelrid HMS Bulletproof), a sliding locker (Edelrid Pure Slider), a screw gate with plastic This carabiner, the Petzl William Ball-lock is the metal sleeve successor to the plastic-sleeved ball-lock. " Nov 5, 2021 · Spring bar holds carabiner in place when belaying to prevent cross loading ; Keylock closure mechanism for optimum handling when clipping and unclipping ; H-profile construction ensures best possible use of material and minimal weight ; Steel insert prevents premature wear from rope friction or bolt hangers ; Fmax. 5mm ropes, and Mammut recommends using their Smart HMS carabiner with this device (it has a safety gate to prevent cross-loading and unscrewing). Color: Slate, When loaded, most of the weight is transferred to the spine of the carabiner making them stronger than most other shapes. This is another super-lightweight ‘biner, weighing just 42g. The Best Carabiner for Trad Climbing: Black Diamond RockLock Twistlock Aug 15, 2019 · This carabiner weighed 73g on our independent scale, which is not the heaviest locker in our review, but also roughly 20g heavier than very similarly shaped HMS style lockers. Their small HMS is the May 9, 2024 · Among the carabiners we tested, the RockLock Twistlock is on the heavier side. Relatively affordable for an HMS/pear-shaped locker, while also offering unparalleled versatility, the Attache far outscored the rest of the competition, and is our Editors' Choice as the best overall locking carabiner. Jul 7, 2021 · The goal of this review was to find the best fully round stock locking carabiner for rope bearing on a belay device in plaquette or "guide" mode. It combines the advantages of both a steel carabiner and an aluminium carabiner. There are no common chainrings sizes that this locker will fit into. It compares it to a bunch of carabiners in the 30+ gram range and makes it sound like it is some uniquly light and amazing carabiner. 0 specifications Keylock nose carabiner advantages Screwgate carabiner for beginners High breaking load carabiner for Feb 24, 2018 · They like its cross load prevention features, functionality, and quality, with one describing it as the best carabiner they've used. If you are using the older GriGri with a fairly thin rope, we’d suggest the Petzl Freino to help add friction when lowering and rappelling. Top Select: Petzl Attache; Best Bang for your Buck-CAMP USA Photon Lock; Black Diamond Magnetron (greatest auto-locking) Black Diamond Neutrino (greatest non-locking) Best Asymmetric D: DMM Phantom Screw-Gate Carabiner; Best Auto-Locking: Edelrid HMS Strike Slider; Best for Belaying with a GriGri-DMM Rhino Mammut Smart HMS 2. They like the steel insert, with one customer specifically mentioning the stainless steel portion. Note: This was the first locking HMS carabiner to freely rotate in a belay device or anchor system. Its unique Nov 19, 2015 · The biggest 'biner on test, but not necessarily the best. May 16, 2023 · As a funny side note I got inspired to write this after reading the outdoorgearlab review of the miniwire. Available with a screw, slider, triple or twist lock. Robust and stylish HMS carabiner with Key Lock nose and Screw Gate locking mechanism. In addition to the fully round stock carabiners, the CAMP Nimbus was added to the review by special request (shout out to Nick B!), and two non-round stock carabiners were added to the test for Jun 21, 2023 · 2. Wide opening, easy to use, can take several clove hitches and good for Italian hitches too. This is a carabiner that will work well on the rack of any climber, hiker, skier, or canyoneer. The Best Carabiner for EDC: Heroclip . On the flip side, the twistlock mechanism of this carabiner is among the best we've tested. This triple action auto-locking carabiner also features a hot-forged I-beam construction and a snag proof key-locked nose. This carabiner has the largest gate opening of any HMS carabiner that CAMP sells at 25mm(more on this later). M. Catch-free nose allows fluidity during clipping. This HMS auto-locking carabiner from Climbing Technology of Italy is ultra light, practical and reliable. Check great and honest reviews! BUY DMM Phantom HMS Screwgate. We liked it particularly as a belay locker that worked well both on the up and the down, and as a carabiner to use at multi pitch anchors since it has such a wide and capable basket. OVERALL UTILITY – 25%10; EASE OF UNLOCKING AND LOCKING – 25%7; COMPACTNESS AND WEIGHT – 20%8; GATE SECURITY – 20%7 Nov 9, 2023 · The #2 most owned carabiner ever is the now retired Black Diamond Rocklock (screwgate). 7 to 10. If you’re using a tube style belay device, an HMS carabiner is usually the better option, preferably one with round stock or a steel in the basket for smoother feeding. Ocun Condor HMS and Blackdiamond Gridlock are two available option in my local store. Keylock closure reduces snagging and hot forged body increases the strength to weight ratio. Nov 16, 2016 · Gate Clearance. Connecting into our climbing systems, setting up rigging configurations, storing gear on our persons, and more. Oct 31, 2017 · In our review of the best locking carabiners, it won the award for Best Value. ssb ncgf xkv vzzyx sntryc komhl yvtuw jszppb cbpfhb ekwwd fsuqh fsnrt xzsif zeil dnspn