Best quad anchor climbing reddit Overall, use your best judgement in creating an anchor and different scenarios will call for different anchors. Super strong (would you believe 40 kN?!) I love quad anchors. For a more long term anchor you want locking biners and multiple points for tieing people in, hanging gear/rope, and general versatility. Best Situation To Use The Quad Anchor To equalize two bomber anchor points such as a two-bolt anchor. Jun 22, 2021 · Basically saying that 1 in a million scenarios will cause a quad to fail, but fail to acknowledge that there are plenty of 1 in a million scenarios that cause any other anchor to fail as well. If I'm setting up a top rope on top of a sport route, it's a pretty good solution. Another advantage of quad is you plenty of cord you can cut up if you have to bail or fix old slings on rap. I don't want a knot that reduces the strength of the rope catching a shock load if a bolt fails. Fully redundant. Quick to set up and break down, no knots to untie. They make things super easy. com Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor, first mentioned (I think) around 2006 by John Long in his book “Climbing Anchors”, was an attempt to have the Holy Grail in anchors. I use an autolocker for masterpoint or clipping belay device in guide mode. - Since the quad needs to be doubled up, it is difficult to equalize anchors where the placements are far apart. Minimal extension. I prefer keeping the double fisherman's outside of the middle. See full list on climbing. What’s cool about the quad? Good load distribution. If bolts are good, climbing is easy, rockfall not common I still use sliding x ocassionally. . 2 quickdraws are fine as a very short term anchor, like if you are rapping a multipitch or flying up an easy sport climb and swapping leads. This can shock-load the remaining piece(s). As for a TR anchor, I'd worry with the use of non locking carabiners. - The quad will extend slightly should either anchor point fail. Mar 13, 2016 · Plenty of space to put partners in direct, clip gear and backpacks. ewd gvgs buvrd jddrj qtjczm dse qwttdjt uuuof zvmdnu rzfbpg

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